[PPCC] Brake Fluid

Fri Sep 14 11:07:03 EDT 2018

Thanks everyone for the responses - sounds like DOT 3 is still the way to
go!

On Thu, Sep 13, 2018 at 6:44 PM JOHN DAWSON via PPCC-list <
ppcc-list at corvair.org> wrote:

> John:
> and my $0.25 worth echoes the other posts.
> Use DOT3; easy to procure; most common brake fluid out there, and is
> relatively inexpensive.
> If you want some extra heat protection, you could spring for DOT4, but
> that's harder to find and costs more.
> See the link below for some basic info on the difference between brake
> fluids.
>
> https://blog.amsoil.com/whats-the-difference-between-dot-3-and-dot-4-brake-fluid/
>
> One more thing; even though we live in a dry climate, brake fluid LOVES
> moisture (water) and it gets contaminated and looses its stopping power. A
> good preventative maintenance practice is to "replace" the brake fluid
> (flush the system) every couple of years or so.
> Now, do I do that on MY cars?...well, maybe only if I replace a component
> or when I do the brake shoes.
>
> Happy motoring
> JD
>
> On September 13, 2018 at 7:56 PM David Feasel via PPCC-list <
> ppcc-list at corvair.org> wrote:
>
> My 2 cents worth on this. I've used dot 3 on new systems and old. No
> problem. Like Ed said, if you know what is already in the lines use it.
> Like Steve, I've used used dot 3 on partial brake placement not knowing
> what was in there and everything is fine.
>    Grumpy.
>
> On Thu, Sep 13, 2018, 5:39 PM MICHAEL PIPER via PPCC-list <
> ppcc-list at corvair.org> wrote:
>
>> Since we've been invited to Chime in...
>>
>> I have a 1965 Corsa. Everything was new except wheel cylinders which I
>> honed and rebuilt. I put in the Clarks dual master cylinder conversion
>> which really doesn't matter to this discussion. I put DOT5 silicone fluid
>> in it. While it works great, solid pedal and all that, it was hard to bleed
>> because if you are too vigorous pumping the brake when you bleed it you
>> will likely get air bubbles in the system and never get a firm pedal. So,
>> when you pump it before opening the bleeder, pump it SLOWLY. When you let
>> the pedal back up, do it SLOWLY. When you add fluid to the reservoir, do it
>> SLOWLY and carefully and let the bubbles rise before you start back in.
>> When I say SLOWLY, allow two-three seconds where you might normally allow
>> one when bleeding. In retrospect, I probably should have used DOT 3 but I
>> don't want to mess with flushing the silicone out to switch it now.
>>
>> On my 1966 Monza I used DOT3, again with a dual master cylinder
>> conversion. New hoses and wheel cylinders, mostly old steel lines. The
>> problem I ran into there is apparently the omission of the check valves and
>> smaller ports in the piston area of the newer master cylinder means that as
>> you pump it and let the pedal up after opening the bleed screw you also
>> need to do that slowly to allow the chambers to fill. Air bubbles are not
>> much of a problem when adding fluid. Once I figured out how to chase the
>> air out I have solid pedal there too.
>>
>> A good thing about DOT 5 is it will not eat paint and doesn't dry out our
>> skin like DOT 3. Don't get either one in your eyes.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> On September 13, 2018 at 5:15 PM Ed & Cheryl Halpin via PPCC-list <
>> ppcc-list at corvair.org> wrote:
>>
>> Hi John,
>>
>>
>> Glad to hear from you.  Great question!  Others can chime in, but I'll
>> give you my two cents.
>>
>>
>> In my '60, I redid all of the brakes at the point of restoration (master
>> cylinder, hoses, and wheel cylinders (did not need to do lines), and I went
>> with toe good old DOT3 brake fluid.  Have not had any issues with water in
>> the lines, or stiffness of pedal. The bleeding process went as normal, no
>> issues.
>>
>>
>> In my '67 Sedan, I only had to replace the wheel cylinders (all lines,
>> the dual master cylinder and hoses were all in good shape) and do a brake
>> line flush.  For that one, I again used the DOT3 fluid, and I have never
>> had an issue, nice stiff pedal and no issue bleeding the brakes.
>>
>>
>> In the '62 wagon I just completed, I wound up replacing both rear brake
>> lines, hoses, and wheel cylinders, while I was in there doing the complete
>> rear suspension upgrade (went to the '64 leaf spring set-up).  The car came
>> to me with DOT5/silicone already in the lines, and I saw no need to replace
>> it (if it aint broke, ...) so I bought a bottle of DOT5, bled the system as
>> normal, and I've had a nice stiff pedal on the car.  No weird issues or
>> problems bleeding the brakes.
>>
>>
>> As to the article you had read, I'm not sure either what it would mean
>> for it to be hard to bleed.  Once set up, it's a closed system, and in our
>> arid climate (even Denver is considered a high plains desert), I'm not sure
>> how much of an issue it is.
>>
>>
>> Now, those are the three vehicles I can speak to.  Other folks in the
>> Club, chime on in with your thoughts.
>>
>>
>> *Ed Halpin, PPCC*
>>
>>
>> On September 13, 2018 at 5:02 PM John Kull via PPCC-list <
>> ppcc-list at corvair.org> wrote:
>>
>> Greetings from Grand Junction!
>>
>> Those of you that know me know that I am really new to Corvairs. I am
>> working with my son on a 67 Monza and we plan to replace EVERYTHING in the
>> braking system. I have acquired new lines, hoses, shoes, master cylinder
>> and am rebuilding wheel cylinders. My question is about fluid. I keep
>> hearing folks talk about DOT 5 or silicone brake fluid. The Clarks website
>> seems to push it and I hear that many folks use it on older cars since it
>> will not attract water. It all sounds good but the other day I ran across
>> an article that gave a few downsides saying silicone fluid is hard to bleed
>> and if you live in a dry climate (which I do) that you really can stick
>> with DOT 3?
>>
>> So I am asking the club members - what do you ladies and gentlemen use on
>> your cars, trucks and vans?
>>
>>  DOT 3 or DOT 5 and what does it mean that silicone fluid is "hard to
>> bleed?"
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>>
>> JK
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