<VV> Engine install advice and an update

NicolCS@aol.com NicolCS@aol.com
Mon, 23 Aug 2004 12:18:53 EDT

Way to go, David!  Your plan to lift the engine into position is workable, I 
do something similar with an overhead crane.  The car will have to be a mile 
high to get the engine under the rear opening, if the engine is resting on the 
legs of the cherry picker.  It takes almost 3 ft under the rear lip when the 
engine is slid under on a piece of plywood and not resting on the legs of a 
cherry picker.  A bracket on the rear of the engine doesn't sound like a good 
idea; would be in the way.  I suggest doing what I do:  Use two motorcycle 
tie-down straps to the rear and a good chain to the bell housing loop.  One tie down 
strap to a temporarily installed bolt in the alternator mount and another 
tie-down to the right-side skid plate bolt-boss, below the distributor.  Most of 
the weight is carried at the bellhousing loop.  The two straps to the rear 
probably only carry about 150 lbs but they permit you to adjust the front/rear 
tilt, and left/right tilt. Raise the trans end first and install a couple of 
bolts loosely.  While the powertrain is angled (low at the rear) install the rear 
suspension control arms, then raise the rear up into position. You may want 
to remove the decklid.  The lift point and the rear edge of the raised decklid 
are essentially the same place and it's easy to damage the trim.
Craig Nicol
1) The service manual depicts making a mount out of 3"
angle iron to lift the rear of the engine. You use
this along with lift point on the clutch housing. Do
you need the angle iron bracket or is there a simpler

2) My plan is to assemble the entire drive train, put it
on a sheet of plywood which is resting on the legs of
the cherry picker then roll the whole works under the
car, then attach the chain from the picker to lift the
drive train into place. Does this sound like a
workable plan?