Subject: Re: <VV> squeak and chirp

[Harold Eigenman]

> Lauren C Mizel <slmizel@juno.com> wrote:
>. I was trying to keep everything together, but when the axle flew off the
car
> and bounced a few times next to my head there was no hope for keeping all
> those little guys together.......



Steve, you already have some very good advise on how to remove an axle from
the car but I thought I'd tell you how I do it. I don't have anyone handy to
pull the top of the wheel out for me so I use this method:

The outer strut rod bolt has an eccentric with marks on it, take note which
mark on this eccentric lines up with the index mark on the torque arm, you
could mark it with a small center punch indentation. Loosen the nut on the
strut rod bolt and rotate the eccentric with a 3/4" socket and flex handle in
the direction that swings the torque arm away from the center of the car. This
will result in letting the axle have more end space. If you position the
u/joint caps in a horizontal position before turning the strut rod bolt it is
possible to remove the axle without having the needle bearings falling all
over the floor. The u/joint may cant sideways by pivoting on one of the cups
but you can use a large screw driver and release the cup, swing the free end
of the axle clear and then release the remaining u/joint. When reassembling,
place one end of the axle in the u/joint flange, align up the other end of the
axle with the opposite flange and rotate the outer strut rod bolt back to your
previously marked index, then install the u/joint cap retainer straps.
Tighten the strut rod bolt to around 90 foot pounds. (I'm guessing on this
torque, Steve, so check your manual). If you have to replace the u/joints and
if you use joints that have grease zerks, install them with the zerk pointing
toward the center of the axle and with both zerks indexed on one side of the
axle, makes the job of lubing later much easier.