<VV> 65 ballast resistor

[Sethracer@aol.com]

In a message dated 3/10/2004 4:18:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
JVHRoberts@aol.com writes:

It's a resistor wire, running from the main connector in the engine 
compartment to the + side of the coil. To bypass, you'll have to run a new 
wire from that connector to the input of your ignition, the + side of the coil, 
and/or 
wherever else you need to run +12 VDC.

The above is partially true. The actual "resistance" wire runs from the main 
compartment connector part of the way down the harness toward the coil, then 
it makes a U-turn, comes back and turns off toward the two pin connector that 
feeds the small harness to the starter. At that Tee-shaped connector, the 
"resistance" wire is crimped onto another, regular, wire that goes back into the 
harness and ends up at the coil + side. To bypass the resistance, it is, indeed, 
easier to remove that feed connector at the main harness plug (wrap it to 
keep it from grounding) and use the cavity (feeding ignition switched battery 
voltage) to add the new bypass wire and run it to the coil +. The previously 
connected wire at the coil + can also be folded back and wrapped to keep it from 
grounding. The only reason to leave the double-crimped connector installed at 
the starter plug is if you leave the original coil + wire on at the coil. This 
will allow you getting the starter solenoid switched 12 volts during cranking. 
(I know- the voltage "should" be the same as the feed through the ignition 
switch and main harness, but the shorter run doesn't hurt!)  

Okay, Ron - Those instructions may be cryptic - But they are correct! <grin> 
- Seth