<VV> Update on engine cutting out

[Anil Mittal]

And yet another update:

The engine compartment wiring harness was very cruddy and pretty
hacked up by a PO so I replaced it. I ordered the replacement from
www.wiringharness.com and was very impressed by how well it matched
the original one. I had no problems replacing it. I double checked
all the connections making sure that the voltage to the coil was
dropped through the resistance wire and all looked good. I started up
the car and it started easily and revved easily. But it would not
idle, it just shut off completely now. OK so now I am stumped. I took
off the distributor cap to check the rotor and contacts in the cap,
they all looked good. While I had the rotor off I also pulled the
reluctor gear off of the cam lobes. I noticed a fair amount of oil
inside of it. The reluctor gear uses a moulded rubber bushing to
press fit onto the distributor can lobes, the bushing seems to be
made of some sort of RTV material. What I noticed was that the
material had become very soft and the reluctor gear tended to turn
pretty freely on the cam lobes. By this time I was pretty frustrated
and grasping for straws. I remembered that I had a old ignitor in my
parts stash that had a hot low RPM miss problem. I swapped in the
ignitor and the egine ran like a champ (less the hot low RPM miss)!
This is great news. I have a new Ignitor II and Flame Thrower II coil
on the way. Thanks to everyone for all of the help. One side effect
of this whole thing is that I have a new engine wiring harness and my
voltage drops to the front are less, time to order more wiring
harnesses!

Anil



Hello All,

Here is an update on the below, and help would be greatly
appreciated. I replaced the coil with an Accel Super Stock coil last
week and still had the same problem as below. Last night I picked up
a new ignition module for the HEI and installed it. While I was
replacing the module I also removed the tach wire from the coil to
rule out a bad tachometer. I drove the car about 25 miles and like
clock work the engine went dead as I came to a stop light. I quickly
grabbed by VMM and checked a few things. I found that I still had the
correct 12V to the ignition module and coil. I also still had a good
ground for the body of the ignition module. I noticed that something
did change though. I could start the car fairly easily but it would
only stay running at higher RPMs when I depressed the accelerator
pedal, it would not idle normally until it cooled for a few minutes.
Another thing that changed is that the "cool down" time is much
shorter now, on the order of 2 to 3 minutes and not 10 minutes. I
don't even have to open the hood for the cool down, just wait a few
minutes and I am off on my way till it warms up again. It looks like
I am getting spark since I can start it and it will run at higher
RPMs and I am getting fuel since it will run at the higher RPMs. What
would cause a hot motor to not want to idle? Thank you for any help!

Anil



Hello All,

I have been out of the Corvair loop for about 2 years now. Changing
jobs, moving coast to coast, buying a house and fixing it up has
kept my Corvair under cover in the garage for too long now. But
finally I see the light at the end of the tunnel, the house projects
are almost done, the last snow has fallen (I hope) and the weather
is warming up. Time to get the Corvair back on the road. My car is a
66 Monza Cvt with a 140 engine and a PG trans. I have two questions
for the group:

QUESTION 1:

Backround: 

My car has a Dale built distributor which is the correct one for 
this Trans/engine combination. The distributor has a Dale HEI 
ignition. Yeah I know it is overkill for this application but while 
I was working on the distributor/ignition I wanted to replace 
everything. The coil which is on the car now says Fire Ball on it. 
The distributor cap and rotor are fairly new and show no wear. The 
plug wires are from Seth and are in good shape. When I installed the
electronic ignition I bypasses the resistor wire in the harness so
that the coil and ignition get a full 12V.

Problem: 

The car starts fine, idles fine, has great power and throttle 
response. After I drive it for a number of miles (20 to 30) the car 
just quits. If I let it cool down for about 10 minutes it starts up 
fine and all is good till it warms up again and the sit and cool 
cycle starts again. I don't think this is vapor lock since I can see
a stream of gas from the accelerator pumps even when the car does
not want to start. Would this indicate a bad coil? I do not know the
age of the coil. Should I have not run 12V to the coil and ignition?