<VV> Clutch Problems in my FC (part III)

Larry Forman Larry@Forman.net
Sun, 23 May 2004 10:03:28 -0700


Hi,
Here are some thoughts on clutches, many of which you might be already doing:
1. It is not good that the input shaft was too tight with the pilot 
bushing.  Something is wrong with that.  Also, make sure your pilot bushing 
is non-magnetic by checking with a magnet.  Properly oil it by placing it 
on your thumb and filling with oil, then pressing with one or more fingers 
on the top until it "weeps oil".  If the fit was that tight then that alone 
could cause the pilot bushing to burn up or fry.
2. Check that the input shaft is straight by placing it on V blocks and 
using a dial indicator as you rotate the shaft.
3. Remove the bell housing and place it on a flat surface and indicate the 
top surface to see if it is compressed and no longer has parallel front and 
rear mounting surfaces.  This tip is in the Corsa Tech Guide.
4. If using the Vega style clutch disk, use the thin Otto Parts/Clarks 
crankshaft/flywheel strengthening ring and NO washers under it.  Make sure 
you use the very thin headed special bolts for this.  If you use the PG 
bolts then the heads will be too high and they will rub as the clutch disk 
starts to wear, possibly after a few thousand miles.  Using washers under 
those heads will do the same but it will be much worse if the heads 
are  thicker.
5. Use the proper ball mount, since Earlies and Lates are different.
6. Bob Helt's "Classic Corvair" book has some clutch and flywheel 
measurements that seem to be no where else.  Good reference info when 
rebuilding and checking for clutch problems.
7. I like to use a long 2X4 board about four or more feet long with a hole 
drilled close to the end.  I slide this hole through the clutch pull rod 
and use it to lever operate the clutch before mounting the power train.  I 
can measure the clutch activation distance to check for proper operation.

I agree that this problem is definitely solvable with the right parts.

HTH,
Larry Forman