<VV> starter issues

[Larry Forman]

Hi Eric,
Not so fast!  While it certainly COULD be the starter, along with it's brushes that simply need to be replaced, and the complete instructions for that simple operation are in the CORSA Tech Guide, BUT it also could be a poor electrical connection or dying battery.  To quickly isolate if it is an electrical voltage supply problem, get a DMM.  Digital Multi-Meters are anywhere from $5 at Harbor Freight, on sale, on up.  Well worth the investment.  

Measure the voltage RIGHT at the battery terminals while someone else cranks the starter in the car.  You should have a minimum of 10.5  volts.  If not, you need to replace your battery or charge it.  Make the same measurement right at the heavy terminal of the starter and a well grounded connection to the frame of the starter while someone else cranks the engine.  Disable the ignition system for safety.  You should have a minimum of 10 volts at that place.  If you have sufficient battery voltage, but you lose more than a volt at the starter then you have corroded connections or defective cabling.  It is possible you might only have corrosion on the battery terminal connections and are losing voltage there.  To check, measure right AT the battery terminal and also on the connector.  Amazingly, some people have over a volt at that bolted junction when heavy current flows.   Removing the connection, wire brushing it, neutralizing the acid with a little baking soda and water sol
 ution and then cleaning it and rebolting the connection might solve high resistance connection issues.  Note, using a DMM with it's ability to accurately measure a couple tenths of a volt is important.  It is really not practical to try to measure the resistance of the cabling or connections.  But once heavy current flows, it is relatively quick to measure some voltage drop and that is what you need to find, if that is your problem.  It is also quite possible that corrosion has climbed inside the heavy wiring and eaten away some of the wiring.  This might be noticeable by slight bubbling of the insulation.  Measure the voltage drop across the wire terminal to terminal end to check it out.

Finally, make darn sure that you don't have an intermittent ignition switch that is not allowing enough current to start the solenoid.  You can run a jumper connection from the battery positive terminal to the "S" connection on the solenoid, or simply short from the "S" terminal over to the heavy connection on the starter.  It WILL spark as you do this, so don't be surprised.  It will also tend to make an electrical mark, so don't do this on a concours car.

HTH,

-- Larry Forman

----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Marschner <emarschn@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 10:33:12 -0600
To: virtualvairs <virtualvairs@corvair.org>
Subject: <VV> starter issues

> I have a starter that doesn't seem to work while mounted in the car. 
> It works fine outside of the car, but under load it is slow and will
> sometimes turn the engine, but usually it doesn't.  That said, I would
> like to try another starter...  but I am not finding any luck at the
> local auto parts stores.
> 
> I seem to remember that other vehicles use the same starter as the
> corvair, with a swap of the nose.  Is this true?  Which vehicles?
> 
> Thanks,
> Eric
> http://www.corvairproject.com
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