<VV> re:fuel sender calibrate

[tom zimmermann]

The float arm travel is limited by the 2 tab/stops.The arm moves a springy contact across a flat non-conductive board that has thin resistance wire wrapped around it,one end going to the gauge,the contact goes to ground by way of sending unit plate-hence a good ground to the plate is necessary.( I've got one here I took the cover off,no continuity,resistance wire wore thru) ..the height of the float in the tank should be 'near' full,but probably not butt-up to the top of the tank..the actual sender is essentially a radio volume control;doesn't matter how long the armis,or where 'off' is marked..FWIW,I had a gauge that the needle had moved on the shaft(came off real easy) over many years,another that moisture (rust) had altered the relationship of things inside the gauge-got tried of pounding on the dash..My daughter's Blazer's voltmeter reads "18"volts,but my meter says 14.5-yeah,gauges do fail sometimes...If the steering wheel was not installed with the chisel/scribe marks
 aligned,then yes,remove the steering wheel and align it. You're joking,but closer to the truth than you think:: if the the steering wheel is off 60 degrees,the box will still turn the wheels to the left/right stops;so if the sender isn't broke,don't fix it !! --''groundstrap Tom"

J R Read_HML <hmlinc@sbcglobal.net> wrote: But it will change the OHM reading in relationship to how high the float is 
in the tank, won't it? Seems logical to me.

Re: Remove and replace the needle - guess there is more than one way to 
"calibrate" these things.

When you do a wheel alignment, do you just take the steering wheel off and 
put it back on in the "right" place? Inquiring minds would like to know.

Attachments (if any) are scanned with anti-virus software.

Later, JR
'61 Rampside Standard 4/110
'65 Monza Convertible 4/140
'66 beater Coupe - icemobile 4/140

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom zimmermann" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, January 29, 2005 11:30 AM
Subject: re:fuel sender calibrate


> If the float travel is correct in the tank,stop-to-stop,bending the rod 
> won't change the ohm reading to move the gauge..I'd solder a ground wire 
> on the sender,run to the interior fusebox/dash area,same with the gauge 
> cluster..If the gauge still doesn't read accurate,pull the needle off the 
> gauge,press it back on where it 'reads' right--Tom
>
>
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