<VV> re:fuel sender calibrate

J R Read_HML hmlinc@sbcglobal.net
Sat, 29 Jan 2005 18:38:48 -0600


Hi Tom,

I'm sure you are right about having a good ground.  I also suspect that just
bending the rod can lead to wear on the float if it is bent high enough to
touch the tank which will lead to early sinking of the float and an E signal
to the gauge.  OR, if the rod is bent downward to the point that the float can
no longer float (on top of the gas) when the tank is full (it is staying
submerged), that could also lead to (early) sinking of the float and the same
result - an E on the gauge.

It has been a while since I've looked at the innards of the sending unit.  I
seem to recall three or four coils (I think it is 3) in there.  I also recall
that ONE of the coils can be broken and the sending unit will still work - but
not for the full range it should.  Example - it might only register around 2/3
when the tank is full - but will still be accurate at the bottom (E) end of
the range...   which is where you really need it to be accurate.  This (of
course) assumes a good ground!

Attachments (if any) are scanned with anti-virus software.

Later, JR
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: tom zimmermann
  To: J R Read_HML
  Cc: virtualvairs@corvair.org
  Sent: Saturday, January 29, 2005 5:09 PM
  Subject: Re: <VV> re:fuel sender calibrate


  The float arm travel is limited by the 2 tab/stops.The arm moves a springy
contact across a flat non-conductive board that has thin resistance wire
wrapped around it,one end going to the gauge,the contact goes to ground by way
of sending unit plate-hence a good ground to the plate is necessary.( I've got
one here I took the cover off,no continuity,resistance wire wore thru) ..the
height of the float in the tank should be 'near' full,but probably not butt-up
to the top of the tank..the actual sender is essentially a radio volume
control;doesn't matter how long the armis,or where 'off' is marked..FWIW,I had
a gauge that the needle had moved on the shaft(came off real easy) over many
years,another that moisture (rust) had altered the relationship of things
inside the gauge-got tried of pounding on the dash..My daughter's Blazer's
voltmeter reads "18"volts,but my meter says 14.5-yeah,gauges do fail
sometimes...If the steering wheel was not installed with the chisel/scribe
marks aligned,then yes,remove the steering wheel and align it. You're
joking,but closer to the truth than you think:: if the the steering wheel is
off 60 degrees,the box will still turn the wheels to the left/right stops;so
if the sender isn't broke,don't fix it !! --''groundstrap Tom"

  J R Read_HML <hmlinc@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
    But it will change the OHM reading in relationship to how high the float
is
    in the tank, won't it? Seems logical to me.

    Re: Remove and replace the needle - guess there is more than one way to
    "calibrate" these things.

    When you do a wheel alignment, do you just take the steering wheel off and
    put it back on in the "right" place? Inquiring minds would like to know.

    Attachments (if any) are scanned with anti-virus software.

    Later, JR
    '61 Rampside Standard 4/110
    '65 Monza Convertible 4/140
    '66 beater Coupe - icemobile 4/140

    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "tom zimmermann"
    To:
    Sent: Saturday, January 29, 2005 11:30 AM
    Subject: re:fuel sender calibrate


    > If the float travel is correct in the tank,stop-to-stop,bending the rod
    > won't change the ohm reading to move the gauge..I'd solder a ground wire
    > on the sender,run to the interior fusebox/dash area,same with the gauge
    > cluster..If the gauge still doesn't read accurate,pull the needle off
the
    > gauge,press it back on where it 'reads' right--Tom
    >
    >
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