<VV> Floor Pans

[bob mccrum]

I agree with Smitty.  Properly riveted floor pans should be equally as
strong as the original floors.  Please note: I said properly riveted.
Properly riveted is drilling the properly sized holes, used the correct
rivets (shear or tension), and using a rivet gun and bucking bar. Pop rivets
aren't rivets at all, but merely a device to clamp pieced together until the
pieces can be fastened correctly.  bob mc (current sheet metal aviation).
thanks for the bandwidth.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <vairologist at juno.com>
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Cc: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 1:05 AM
Subject: <VV> Floor Pans


>
>
> > From: <mhicks130 at cox.net>
> > Subject: Re: <VV> re;floor patch
> > I can't believe that anyone who is really worried about crash safety
> > is driving around in a 40 year old car.  The cars of today are so
> > much safer in so many ways  - no matter how heavy the old ones are.
> > If I get hit hard enough to start crumpling floors in my convertible
> > with or without welded in floor panels I'm in  world of hurt.
> > Panels that are properly riveted and with structural adhesive can't
> > be that much weeker than welded in panels.  I suppose it's OK to try
> > to maximize your car's ability to stay intact in an accident but if
> > safety is your main concern you should be in a different vehicle.
> ------------------------------------
> Smitty says:   You are entitled to your "Can't Believe" and welcome to it
> Mike, but you are wrong.  Me?  I will have my floors welded in and with
> doublers installed at the seat and belt mounting points.  Improperly
> welded in floor panels do not have the capability of resisting the
> diamond stress on the floor pan in a collision.  Seats rely on the
> strength of the floor to stay in place.  As an old aircraft structures
> mechanic I disagree with your term "properly riveted".  There is no
> "properly riveted when putting a steel panel in place with pop rivets
> spaced an inch apart.  When you speak of using adhesive you do realize
> the it must be applied on bare clean steel and not on top of POR-15 or
> Rustolium  or any other paint of choice.  Otherwise its bonding strength
> is no better than the paint it is stuck to.  How many rusted out floors
> do you think have had their edges cleaned to bare clean steel before
> being repaired?  (if that is what you call a pop riveted, glued in
> floor).  It ought to be obvious that safety is not the main concern of
> any of us.  otherwise we would be riding around in a main battle tank
> with a 30 hp motor and a 6 point racing harness.
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