<VV> Flare fittings.

[Marc Sheridan]

Since you already rounded the nut, just go ahead and use vice grips about as 
tight as you can get them. The new line will have new nuts.

Others will suggest that if the car has not been running and you already had 
one brake line failure, you should replace all the lines, hoses and junction 
blocks. Since you have to drop the gas tank to get to the right front line, 
you might as well have the tank cleaned or replaced. You also might consider 
installing a dual master cylinder and replacing the wheel cylinders.

You can take a lot of short cuts, working on an old car, but shouldn't where 
brakes are concerned.

Marc Sheridan

>I recently needed to replace the steel brake line that goes to the front 
>left wheel on my '65 coupe. The flare fitting in the wheel well was stuck, 
>and after I completely rounded the nut on it, I gave up, cut the line, and 
>just removed the flare fitting its self, still conected to the hose. Then I 
>moved on to the flare fitting on the block on the cars interior. I had 
>wised up and bought a flare fitting wrench and some penetrating oil. Using 
>these tools I was also only able to strip that flare fitting! I am now at 
>my wit's end. I don't know how I'm going to replace that line if it is 
>fused to the T-block with a mutilated flare fitting. I really need to get 
>these brakes working if I'm ever going to get my car driving again. It 
>would be a shame to let such a great car sit and rot in my front lawn. Any 
>advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
> -Sebastian Denault