<VV> Re: VirtualVairs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 241

[Padgett]

>I also  have a hard time with Amsoil just because it seems like they got some
>kind of  cult thing going there. Kind of like the slick50  guys.

Special needs. On a race car you want the slipperiest, coolest running 
capability possible and that means a synthetic. If the absolute last 
fractional mpg for economy is needed the answer is synthetic. No question.

For daily drivers, welllll.

For many years I have just run a quality (usually Valvoline or Castrol but 
whatever was a buck a quart when I needed a case or two (what it takes to 
change to oil in all of our cars) and when oil filters go on sale I usually 
grab a half dozen, mostly PF-47 equivalents since I always change the 
filter with the oil. Used to use nothing but AC Delco filters but when I 
found some that were made by Champ I switched, mostly Purolator now. This 
was simple economics.

However times are changing. If the price for a barrel of crude keeps rising 
I can see a time when synthetics may cost the same or less than 
conventional oils and I will switch.

Maybe it is a lack of guts but around 3,000 miles I feel the need for an 
oil change even if I do not see a drop in the guage.

Have never seen an oil related failure except on a B/P Corvette that 
developed a leak at the back of the intake manifold. In story book fashion 
the engine held together to 10 feet past the checkered flag and then all of 
the smoke in the world erupted.

Once drove from Indiana to Florida on 19 psi max/0 at idle with two cam 
bearings in the bottom of the pan (dealer said it was the gauge). 
Everything miked as new (except the scored cam) when pulled apart.

Herb Adams used to say you just needed "some" oil pressure but broken 
TransAms littered major road circuits though it may have been the 4.25" 
stroke Pontiac engines (Good for 7000 rpm. Once.).

Good rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. Modern engines run much 
higher pressures than yesteryear, coming home tonight the 3800 was reading 
50 psi at 1600 rpm on the freeway. Of course that engine turns over 35 
mph/1000 in o/d lockup.

Do agree with the General and think too thick an oil can accentuate startup 
damage but then I always allow some time between starting and putting in 
gear. Since my driveway slopes down also no gas is needed until I reach the 
street that give a bit more time for oil to get everywhere (gauge is at oil 
filter which is next to the pump).

So to me, oil is oil and purely economics based on a 3000 mile change 
interval. I just feel better that way.

Padgett