<VV> Re:164 cu in LAKEWOOD OR FC ENGINE the only way to go!

Keith Hammett khammett at stainlessfab.com
Fri May 27 08:55:28 EDT 2005


Tims method below of drilling the block seams to work.  The hardest part is
cutting into a good block, took me several tries before I finally did it.  I
did purchase some Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker 598B to use instead of
the o-ring.  You will not be able to use an o-ring if you do this.  I also
choose to leave the car dipstick in the block but you could remove and plug
it.  I put Tim's pictures that he sent to me when I did this on
http://community.webshots.com/user/cvair under block modification.  It was
pretty simple to do.

Keith Hammett

-----Original Message-----

the 2 cmethods i have used so far to put 164 cu in engines in my vehicles
are
building  a new engine by hogging out the crank clearance areas for the 164
crank and just drilling the block with a woodbit for the oil fill and
putting
the correct shroud piece on. i like alternators so that is not an issue, in
fact i always use components from a higher output alternator  on a corvair
front
housing.  i have done both several times and am getting ready to do it again
soon.  i have a "V" block in my 63 rampy running 164 stuff with 140
manifolds
and dual exhaust for many years now against a powerglide.  i also did the
same
with my 64 greenbrier.it makes for a much better driving vehicle! . that has
a
drilled block. i just use a wood bit to drill it(on an extension to keep the
angle) ,and good silicone rubber to seal it. works just fine.  next is the
lakewood...oh i did a 65  car engine for a 65 van last year also.
regards tim colson       pictures are on the webpicture site somewhere.

                                                http://corvair.de/n2vzd/







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