<VV> Re: Floor replacement

[Gary Segal]

I've replaced more than my share of floors using pop rivets and had very good results.  The process is easy, uses little heat and is plenty strong if done properly.  If you want to go with rivets, here are a few tips:
1.  Always, I repeat always, use steel rivets.  Aluminum rivets will cause galvanic corrosion and a relatively rapid deterioration around the rivet.
2.  I would not bother brazing.  The added heat from the brazing will destroy any remaining metal treatment and speed up the rusting process.
3.  Mig welding is OK, but you will likely have to do some panel pounding to get everything close enough together to make the weld.  You'll need some mechanism for clamping things in place priot to welding - like screws or rivets.
4.  On the front floors, make sure you rivet to the rails that run down the middle on each side that connect to the seat cross frame.  I usually rivet to both sides of this frame, running about 3" between rivets.
5.  To start on the driver's side, I usually lay the panel in place, mark the hole and drill the hole for the accelerator pedal, then use that screw as a temporary attachment point.  Then I start from the previoiusly mentioned frame rail and work from the back to the front, just because the new panel usually fits close to the frame at the back, making it easier to get started.
6.  When done, use a good caulk to seal all the way around the perimeter, top and bottom.  I have had good luck recently with urethane caulk (keep it off your skin).  If you are anal, you can also seal around the rivets!
7.  The last set I installed, I used Clark's metal prep, then painted the panels with POR 15 before riveting, then touched up after installation.  They came out really nice.

Good luck,

Gary(AKA Mr. Brutewrench)