<VV> re;floor patch

[RKAT]

What Tony said. Up until a few years ago, I was in the autobody business,
for over 8 years. Unibody cars depend on the floor as part of the structure
in one form or another.  Granted, on a hardtop, it's less of an issue,
however on a convertible.. That floor helps absorbs energy in an accident
also. If you get hit in the side and you have pop-riveted or just plain ole
fibre-glass floors, that is going to fold up on you so quick. The pressure
from being hit in the door/rocker is transferred through the rest of the
car.  I treasure my life and any pain that may occur isn't something I want
to mess with. The adhesives.. Yes, some manufacturers use them only in
CERTAIN areas. There is a reason for this. Some panels in an accident are
designed to crumple, IE: crumple zones. Some cars are designed with week
welds, pretty much there to hold a panel together unless there is an
accident. If that designated area isn't able to crumple like designed, that
energy transfer is forced back further, towards you. The new Vettes have
glued on panels, those however are a composite panel, the structure of the
car us UNDER the composite. Lumina vans, rear quarters glued on, again, a
composite panel.  Just like the yahoo who changed the left front fender on
my Corsa at some point. A total of maybe 10 spots were brazed, and POOR
brazing at that. There were about 5 brazes holding the top of the fender,
one on the front and 4 in the wheel well. NONE in the jamb area. If I or
someone else had gotten hit in the front, that left front would have folded
up MUCH quicker than a properly welded fender. Yes, I spot welded where
needed. Take this how you want, and no, I'm not trying to cut anyone down.
All I ask is to do it right. If you can't, please find someone who can.
Next to my family, my MIG is my best friend. 

 

These are  MY beliefs/thoughts....

 

Ron Tinkham

http://www.ronsjeepjunk.4t.com/

66 Corsa Convertible, 140, 4sp

Maine

 

 
 
What ever happened to mig-spotting sheet metal panels in place before 
running a  bead?   I do this, never warped a panel be it floors or outside 
sheet metal.   A bit of line-up, then a small spot here, three inches later 
another little spot, etc.   After the panel is on place and checked for 
warps or fit (which is easily corrected since the panel is secured in place 
by only a few small spot-welds) you can go back and add additional spots 
between the ones already there, checking for warps along the way, and once 
you're down to an inch or so between spots, you can run a bead with the mig 
welder and follow up with an angle grinder/sander with a 20-grit disk to 
knock down the high spots.
 
Don't forget to have a clean surface to weld to or the mig welder is gonna 
spatter and sputter and flash and in general behave angrily.   In other 
words, don't attempt to weld to rust.
 
IMHO the mig welder was invented to secure automotive replacement sheet 
metal.   Everything else it's good for is just gravy over the roast.
 
 
tony..