<VV> Rekeying lock cylinders

[NicolCS at aol.com]

Rekeying the cylinders isn't too hard but finding the parts to do one is a 
little tough. I harvest them from old locks. (Glove box locks require no new 
parts to rekey)

The procedure is in the factory shop manual. Page 0-3 in the '65 book.  
Basically, you remove the cylinder from whatever lock - the ignition takes just a 
paper clip (let's skip the others).  Then you pry off the retainer cover on the 
side of the cylinder.  Don't mangle it, you want to reuse it. Each end of the 
cover has a blade that sticks into the cylinder about 1/8"; that's what you 
are prying up and out.  Make sure the cover is on top as it comes off or you 
will have 5-6 ittybitty springs and slides (tumblers) on the floor.

Each slide has a notch in the side; there are five different locations for 
the notch on that edge of the slide, each cooresponding to the five different 
depths of cut on the key. You match the slide to the depth cut on the key.  You 
can also use the key code number to select the required slides, but that's 
more work.  There are pictures of all this and the key to decoding the code 
number in the manual.  

I've learned to read the key directly (the factory cut notch is a 2, no cut 
is a 1, fully cut to the step is a 5)   Starting from the head, a fictitious 
key might be 34541.  I have harvested slides out of old locks and keep them in a 
little plastic box, sorted by number.  Pick-up a key, read it, drop the 
appropriate slides in the lock, replace the cover and pinch the cylinder to hold it 
and you're done.  The manual makes it seem more difficult.  Door cylinders 
need more effort 'cause you have to beg a locksmith to sell you some replacement 
caps - the originals are destroyed upon removal.

Don't be surprised it this shows up in my Techlines column next month ;-)
Craig Nicol