<VV> Re: No start

djtcz at comcast.net djtcz at comcast.net
Sun Oct 9 10:23:55 EDT 2005

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Arjay Morgan" <n3lkz at yahoo.com>
> Today I decided to replace the second worn U joint. Car started, stopped
and stayed that way. No amount of cranking and throttle jiggling would get
even a gasp out of her. Gnomes.
. Anybody got any ideas why a car that just ran so perfectly would get a
case of the no-starts from just sitting there playing with her gnomes?
> Arjay Morgan
> 64 Monza convert hors de combat.

Before (ex) changing a single part I'd -
1 -Pull the coil wire at the distrib cap and put a stuff a brand new (any size) spark plug in and crank looking for spark. If there was a weak spark I'd remove the cap and bump the car until the points were closed,  Then with the key on, I'd measure the voltage drop across the clsoed points.  More than about 0.3 volts is bad.  Old engine analyzers had a "points check" function that was a volte meter.  The cause and correction of the excessive volt drop is left to the car owner.
Oh, after getting a spark at the coil lead I'd repeat a spark check at a plug lead.  No spark there (when there was at the coil lead) suggests Maybe a friend removed the rotor for a joke.  If there was a fat blue at a plug lead I'd pour a teaspoon of gas down one carb throat.  If the next crank effort resulted in some kind of combustion activity I'd check fuel pump pressure and delivery volume, kind of expecting to find them deficient.

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