<VV> Wear- Warm up

[Ron]

Very good!  This should be repeated every once and a while.
RonH

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BBRT" <chsadek at adelphia.net>
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 7:21 AM
Subject: <VV> Wear- Warm up


>I believe the key to engine longevity is quick warm-up like modern cars 
>exhibit. Rings in particular are subject to both fuel and oil (And very 
>high temperatures), while bearings for instance, unless oil is diluted by 
>fuel, never see much in the way of combustion products. Were I to have a 
>street Corvair (like I used to -both cars and FC's), I certainly would want 
>a functioning shroud, door, thermostat and heater systems.  Especially in 
>the colder months and more humid "cold" months like in wet Spring and Fall. 
>I believe the period of cold rain, where there is a lot of condensation, 
>has to be the worst conditions for engines, due to the humidity and extreme 
>temperature changes the engine sees from cold start-up thru hot operation 
>and then cooling again with high moisture present.
>
> IMHO
>
> Chuck S
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <djtcz at comcast.net>
> To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 10:11 AM
> Subject: <VV> Warm up
>
>
>>
>> -------------- Original message -------------- 
>>
>>> Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know, I'm ruining my engine by having it warm up so 
>>> slowly without the doors. I'm sure that's what has caused the dropped 
>>> seats and the broken cam gear, the only problems I've had with the 
>>> engine. At  240K miles the crank journals were still in spec, so I don't 
>>> see that the  cold oil is killing me.
>>>
>>
>> The oil additive suppliers are sure fond of reminding me that some high 
>> percentage of "engine wear" occurs at start up.  The best documented 
>> explanation of that I've found is in the 2 volume MIT Press published 
>> "Internal Engine" series by Taylor.  At some point Mr. Taylor describes 
>> corrosive combustion products condensing on the cool cylinder walls.  I 
>> think this explains the "wet" look that a hunk of steel take on when a 
>> propane torch is first played on it.  The condensation causes the 
>> cylinder wall to corrode on some macro scale each power cycle. While that 
>> is occuring the ring and cylinder gleefully rip each other apart.  He 
>> includes some charts showing  that when the cylinder wall gets above some 
>> temperature (maybe 160 F, from feeble memory) the condensation, and thus 
>> the corrosive/abrasive wear essentially ceases.  I'm not sure how any oil 
>> or oil additive could help combat that.
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