Fw: <VV> Removing head studs

[Daniel Monasterio]

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Daniel Monasterio 
To: N. Joseph Potts 
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: <VV> Removing head studs


     That's my forgotten word ! "flanged nuts". 

     I think that those "dimples" are due to high and/or repeated torquing (remember how old those heads are) as I didn't see that dimples after pneumatic hammering but slightly cleaner marks. Of course, I've seen those "dimples" and some diameter reducing on the holes, close to where the nut contacts the head.
     No, I didn't weld the socket to the flange. I welded the socket to a SHANK (any discarded tool used with the air hammer). Or.... maybe I am not using the right word. Is it not a shank ? If you have or have used an air hammer you'll know what I am trying to refer to. English words are not so handy to me. Please... correct me if "shank" is not the right name for the tool.

     Daniel
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: N. Joseph Potts 
  To: Daniel Monasterio ; virtualvairs at corvair.org 
  Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 7:03 PM
  Subject: RE: <VV> Removing head studs


  I had forgotten that these are flanged nuts. I always suspected that the sharp, numerous blows of an air wrench would be more likely to get the nut loose without turning the stud than any steady torque such as one applies by hand (or arm). I would imagine this technique might "dimple" the soft, aluminum head somewhat under the flanges.
       I have a used head (not on the car) with such dimples and I've been wondering about how they got there (doubting that it was done merely with high torque on the nuts), and the scenario you describe strikes me as a possible explanation for them. Have you ever observed such, once the head was off?
       I wonder if this could work without welding the socket to the flange. It would require one more hand (to hold the socket), and it would beat the dickens out of the socket, but I don't have welding.

  Joe Potts
  Miami, Florida USA
  1966 Corsa coupe 140hp 4-speed with A/C
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Daniel Monasterio [mailto:dmonasterio at megared.net.mx]
    Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 7:27 PM
    To: N. Joseph Potts; virtualvairs at corvair.org
    Subject: RE: <VV> Removing head studs


        I used a pneumatic hammer, hammering in line with the stud, on the lower side (like washer) of the nut, using a 9/16", 6 point socket welded to a discarded shank. The idea is to crush or reduce to powder the rust between the stud and nut threads. It works only if the nuts are of the original type. The WD-40, or similar, aids in taking out the powdered rust. After this step, I used an impact wrench (9/16", 6 point socket) giving a few shots out, then in, then out... until the nut starts moving. I don't know why but, the impact wrench works better than a hand wrench on turning the nut only and not the stud. Sometimes it is better to use a 14 mm. socket instead of a 9/16" (14.3 mm) because of tighter fit to the nut.

        Daniel