<VV> Questions about Packard electrical connectors

Frank DuVal corvairduval at cox.net
Tue Dec 5 08:53:36 EST 2006


I use the Ideal "Crimpmaster" series of crimpers for many terminals. The 
interchangeable dies make it useful on most terminals I have run into. 
You can buy the frame with coax dies for RG-59/ RG-6 at Home Depot. The 
other dies are available from many electronic supply houses ( Allied, 
Newark, Mouser, Digi-key, etc.) and Jensen tools, which is now Stanley 
Supply Services.


The die you need for these terminals referenced below is :
Ideal   30-586,  Open Barrel Non Insulated 22 - 12 AWG.

see:

http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/product-detail.aspx?pn=409-462


The "Crimpmaster" frame is;
Ideal  30-506
aka Jensen p/n 600-700

http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/product-group.aspx?id=8767

You can also buy the frame with other dies already installed, such as 
the insulated terminal die, as p/n 30-500.

BTW, The Ideal 30-579 die is the best crimp for those standard insulated 
terminals, found in every hardware store, that I have ever found. The 
terminals do not pull off the wire after crimping with this tool.

While this Ideal series is slightly above homeowner cheap, it  is a 
great tool, and beats the alternative of crimping the "Molex" open 
barrel terminal twice, once for the wire and once for the insulation 
prongs that you can do with the $25 Molex brand hand crimper. The frame 
alone is about $45 and the dies run $25. Shop around.

Frank DuVal

Kent Sullivan wrote:

>Hi,
>
>Several questions... For reference, see the drawings in Clark's main
>catalog, page 100.
>
>Most of the connectors on this page are what I call "Packard Series 56". I
>believe that is the industry standard term. By this I mean the "female"
>metal connector C3295, the "male" metal connector C3299 and all of the
>housings that they fit in.
>
>First question: If you own a crimper that you think does a really good job
>of crimping these connectors onto wires, please let me know. I know there
>are professional ratcheting crimpers for these but they are big bucks--$300
>or more. I have been looking for a hobbyist-quality tool.
>
>The good news is I finally found a crimper today in my area and one test
>crimp went well. I was also happy with the price ($15) but would like to
>know more about what other people are using. I don't have the part number in
>front of me right now but I can get it.
>
>At the bottom of page 100, there is a different kind of connector: C3964
>plus the housings (C8383/C8384). These are used, for example, to connect
>either end of a late model main body harness to the engine compartment
>harness and the fuse block harness.
>
>Second question: What is the official name for these connectors? One person
>in the industry believes they are called "Twin Lock" connectors and that the
>name usually incorporates the size of connector, e.g., "Twin Lock 12-way"
>for a 12-pin connector, like the aforementioned LM main body harness
>connectors.
>
>Third question: Will the same crimper that works for Series 56 also work for
>Twin Lock? The answer appears to be "Yes" but I'm interested in any specific
>experience you-all have.
>
>Fourth question: Do you have a source for the release tool for the Twin Lock
>terminals? Unlike the Series 56, which can be released with a small
>flat-blade screwdriver, the Twin Lock uses two very small tangs, one on each
>side. Ray Sedman told me that what appears to be needed is a long, very thin
>pair of tweezers...
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Kent
>
>
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