<VV> 1964 Corvair value

[Frank DuVal]

Justin,

It would be best if any one on this list knows someone who could look at 
the car. Pictures are only so good at determining value, touchy-feely 
inspection is much better. As one item, "what is rusty" varies a whole 
lot from the east coast to the west coast. What they scrap in California 
is better than 90% of what is for sale here as perfect cars. Not a great 
souce of selling price vs condition, but search eBay for ideas of what 
is selling (especially search completed listings). Also do a Google 
search on "Corvair for sale". Find a local chapter of CORSA and ask 
questions. A member may even know the car and have great insight.

Other comments below:

justin chambers wrote:

>I have located a 1964 Corvair Monza Powerglide and would like to know if the sellers asking price ($3500) is fair. I am new to Corvairs but not to rear engined cars. Below are my questions followed by his responses sent through email.
>   
>  I would like to know the brief history of the car (when you acquired it, documentation, storage, etc.)?
>     "Acquired approx. 08/21/04(per title issued 08/31/04.. Title is clear and car is in my barn.."
> 
>Is the car inspected and how often is it driven?
>     "Have HISTORIC Mo plates so some time since inspected... Started once a month or every two along with short drive if wx is clear.."
> 
>Does the car have a clear title and is it in your possesion?
>     "Clear/yes"
> 
>Is the car a "Monza" or a "500"?
>     "Monza"
>  
>

This is proved by the  64-0927 data on the body tag.

> 
>Is there any rust (battery area, floor pan, rockers, rear quarters panels, door jam, front trunk, around windshield, body etc.?
>     "I've removed the carpet and painted with rust inhibiting paint but never replaced the carpet. Any rust(what there is-is only thru the paint, no soft spots or THRU metal at all.. There is one thru paint on windsheild or rear window.."
>  
>

It isn't perfect, but better than a lot of east coast cars. Location, 
location, location.

> 
>Any oil leaks?
>     "What corvair doesn't at least drip.. ha. Yes it does about an inch in diameter between starts/runs.."
>  
>

This would be typical. If you want to fix the leak there is lots of help 
here on how to find it.

> 
>Any water leaks?
>     "Might have had earlier as floor pan reflects it, but still isn't soft or thru metal..."
>  
>

Typically the rust indicated above near the windows is leaking water. 
This can be fixed, but may (almost certainly) require removing the glass 
and new rubber installed after fixing the metal. There are some pumpable 
rubber sealers for these gasketed windows, you might get lucky.

> 
>Has the engine been rebuilt if so how many miles since?
>     "Have no idea, odo is 40350 something I think.."
>  
>

Ignore any odometer readings unless the car is well documented. Just go 
by condition of motor when purchased. Compression readings will tell a 
lot. Again this is where a local Corvair owner can help. Although a 
clean bill of health does not Guarentee future performance. Hmm, sound 
like the stock market...

> 
>Has the fuel pump been replaced?
>     "??"
>  
>

Only needs to be replaced when it fails. Mostly due to leaking gasoline. 
A recently repaced fuel pump is not a sign of trouble free driving. The 
new one can fail really fast. Much discussion here on THAT subject.

> 
>What condition are the heat exchangers in?
>     "New tubing for heater..."
>  
>

Ahh, a VW owner you are! There are no heat exchangers on a Corvair, just 
sheet metal, thermostats and rubber hoses.
Unless you buy an early with a gasoline heater (only heater available on 
a 1960 model).

> 
>What condition is the engine compartment seal in?
>     "Your talking about the pan viewed from the lid open-- it is great condition..."
>  
>

The early seal, (BTW early refers to the 1960 to 1964 model years  [and 
posibly 1965 trucks and vans...]) is flat rubber and is stapled to the 
sheet metal in the engine compartment. It is cheap (compared to the late 
models) as many materials can be substituted and stapled or pop riveted 
(Modified class only) in place. It is not hard to make the staples from 
bailing wire for the stock look.

> 
>What is the VIN #?
>     "40927W176052"
> 
>What is the body tag?
>     "ID plate reads something like this:    
> 
>            12D
>Style    64-0927      WR  35922    Body
>                                   Paint  C
>Trim  705                 932
> 
>ACC   W2MS3C"
>  
>

932 is Saddle Tan Poly, and the car looks that color.

Other people can tell you where to look up the body tag info. Much 
discussion just in the last few days.

>  Is it a numbers matching car?
>  
>

I'm not sure any Corvair people are numbers matching types, just get in 
the ball park .   ggg.  The flags on the engine lid mean it should have 
a 110 HP engine in it. Harmonic balancer ahould be the rear belt pully. 
There is an engine number that can be seen in the aluminum block showing 
behind the upper shroud and the oil fill casting. The last letters 
should be ZF. See:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/CorvAIRCRAFT/EngineID.htm for details.

>     "Believe all the paint is original exept for one fender.    bought from a Mo individual who said he got it out of a barn in OK. The top paint looks like it was covered with a canvas or something. No rust but worn spots. I can try to take some more detail photos if you'll direct me..I'm not a restoring individual..."
>  
>http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o42/europorsche914/IM000168.jpg
>http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o42/europorsche914/IM000167.jpg
>http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o42/europorsche914/IM000166.jpg
>  What do you guys think?
>  europorsche914 at yahoo.com
>
>
>  
>