<VV> Carburetor Conundrum

[Padgett]

>So Ryan suggests a puff of starting fluid in each carb. We do this, it
>starts right up and runs fine. 10 mile test drive went perfect.

Have seen this before and is not a frozen line, if the plugs are good it 
means the accelerator pump(s) are not working. Pour a half ounce of gas in 
each throat and the same thing will happen. Believe it or don't but 
gasoline, particularly cold gasoline is hard to ignite. You need lots. Was 
told once that with a really cold engine it would take near enough gas to 
cause hydrolock to flood it.

You also have the issue that slow cold cranking will not pull gas into the 
throat, again you need the pumps to be in new and supple condition. Old and 
brittle and they will work sorta when warmed but not cold. Starter fluid or 
some gas in the throat gets the engine spinning fast enough for the venturi 
effect to pull more gas in (and is really what the choke does, increases 
the pressure differential between the venturi and the bowl vents - why the 
choke plate plate does not cover the vents - few think about *why* a choke 
works but putting your hand over the whole throat is really not a good idea).

Starting a cold engine that has been sitting a while is usually for me a 
two step process. First crank with the ignition off until the oil light 
goes off then wait a few seconds. Pump the pedal four or six times then 
take your foot off the gas and crank again for 5 seconds. Repeat until 
starts. Modern FI cars "rattle the injectors" on key on and increase the 
pulse width for a cold start to accomplish the same thing.

GM had a problem with 3800s firing in cold weather and the TSB advised to 
turn the key to run for two seconds then turn all the way to off then turn 
the key to run, wait two seconds and start. If it started right up GM had a 
replacement PROM that would rattle the injectors twice on key-on. If that 
didn't work you took a hard look at the fuel pump relay but that is another 
story.

Padgett