<VV> Norm's "SEQ"

[Ray Rodriguez]

Tom,

     The car with the problem is a 1966 500 coupe with 95hp and a Powerglide.  The other car I am comparing it to is my 65 Corsa 140/4.

     I will try an ohm meter on the circuits when i get home.  As someone stated the resistor wire comes from switched 12v and goes to a 2 plug connector connected to the starter.  When cranking the starter supplies 12 volts to the wire at this point, post resistor wire.  The yellow wire runs from here to the coil and is therefore about 6 volts with the switch on and 10.5  while cranking.  I believe the second wire at the coil I was asking about is just a tach wire (the corsa has a tach, the coupe does not).  At least this is what I was told.   

     I still need to know if reading 10.6 volts on the + side of the coil while running is ok.  I do believe the coil is overheating and the fact that it is running one volt higher then my Corsa might have something to do with it.  Should the Coil be too hot to touch after 5 minutes of running?  I will try the resistance test when I get home in a few hours.

Ray
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: tom zimmermann 
  To: Frank DuVal 
  Cc: reray at echoes.net ; virtualvairs at corvair.org 
  Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 8:40 AM
  Subject: Re: <VV> Norm's "SEQ"


  Frank-Rays' the one frying his coil,right?while the wiring is "the same",they're wrapped differently...what year+engine are we dealing with?I've got a 65 Monza 110 harness out,can send pic if needed,,,just don't know why he's got 2 with different voltages at the coil in 'run' position...putting the ohm meter on each, out-of-circuit ,would hopefully pin the problem down..//

  Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net> wrote:
    Both the yellow wire and the resistor wire appear under the terminal on the + screw of the coil on most Corvairs. In Ray's case I think the yellow wire was the disconnected one. Is that correct Ray? If the resistor wire was disconnected from the coil, and the yellow wire was still connected, then the car would start but not run. Yes, tracing the resistor wire back to the main harness connector will find the +12 volt hot wire. The yellow wire does not go to the harness connector directly.

    Frank DuVal

    tom zimmermann wrote: 
      yes ,it certainly does,but the reason the engine will start and run "ok" is the resistor wire in series with it,from the main harness plug,which doubles back to the 2-wire plug to the starter,crimped to the yellow wire there...trace the resistor wire back to the body-side of the main connector,and you have full volts from the IGN key in start and run...disconnected wire? no power to the coil,it'll quit,won't it?...sorry, I fell asleep last nite...Tom..//

      Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net> wrote: 
        Uh Tom, the yellow wire on the starter terminal is the same one that 
        connects to the coil + terminal.
        Ray, this is probably the wire disconnected on your coil.
        This wire only supplies +12volts when the starter is cranking. At other 
        times when the key is on it will only read coil voltage.

        Having this wire disconnected will still have the car start and run, 
        just not as easy to start in bad conditions (very hot, very cold).

        So safeguard will not work on this wire properly.

        But a relay switched by this wire may do well. Or follow others 
        instructions so far on color of wires.

        Frank DuVal

        tom zimmermann wrote:

        >Norm,aside from running a manually-switched dedicated 12v circuit,you *could*trace the 12v ign (yellow) wire back from the 2-wire plug to starter to the main harness connecter ,by the prop for rear decklid...go to the body-side of that plug,and there you have start/run 12...you could tap off there,and employ a relay to switch more amps than the yellow wire can supply,like to your safeguard,etc...Tom..//






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