<VV> Moving battery to the trunk

[levair at aol.com]

In my experience, you will also need a long, extra ground wire in addition to the stock ground. (# 6 to # 2 wire)  for good starting--preferably straight to the starter motor ground. These old car bodies are not very good long distance electrical conductors.
  The improved handling is very noticable. 
Warren
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: jekepler at amplex.net
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Sent: Wed, 18 Oct 2006 9:11 AM
Subject: RE: <VV> Moving battery to the trunk



-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of Edelstein and Payne
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 8:41 AM
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: <VV> Moving battery to the trunk

Folks,

    To better balance the car, my son and I are getting ready to move the
battery on his 65 coupe from the engine carpartment to the trunk.  We've got
a Moroso plastic battery box into which we will put an Optima battery.
We've also got a long cable kit from Moroso.  We're planning on running the
cable down through the belly pan.  I'm sure other folk have done this, and
I'm wondering what problems we'll face with the wiring.
   Thanks,


Be advised that you will then have 8' of unfused major-league wire connected
to a power source capable of melting several pounds of steel in a matter of
seconds, routed through an enclosed metal box containing a HIGHLY
combustible plastic duct and a 5/16" fuel line with rubber connectors.  

All that is required to cause a major fire is fuel, and oxidizer, and an
ignition source.  By re-routing the battery cable, you are providing all
three!  All in the pursuit of a solution ("move the battery") that's
searching for a problem ("better balance") to solve!

John Kepler Sr.
Former Owner of a restored 66 500 that burned to the hubs when the unfused
"A" Lead to the fuse-block grounded in the tunnel.


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