<VV> RTV for Top Cover OK under special circumstances

[Dan & Synde]

I agree, I always do the modification on any engines I build now.
Eliminates a gasket and a common leak spot.  I use  Qty 6 -  5/16-24 x 3/4"
bolts, 6 washers and  6 all metal locknuts and brushable teflon sealant from
your local hardware store.  Cut the baffle so that it fits nicely just
inside the gasket surface area.  Make sure to orient the baffle openings so
they don't act as a scoop for oil being thrown off the crankshaft.  Drill 3
holes at either end thru the baffle and thru the cover.  Make sure the heads
of the bolts will clear the inside ends of the crankcase before you drill
the holes.  Push the bolts thru from the inside.  Apply brushable telflon
sealant to the end of the bolt sticking out the top of the cover.  Place a
washer over each bolt and a locknut and tighten.  Make sure to get some
sealant under the washer.  Putting the sealant on after inserting the bolt
prevents getting sealant in the crankcase.  If needed, cut bolt flush with
locknut.  Install cover.

Dan Kling

1961 Greenbrier Deluxe, 4spd, 3.89  On the Road Again,  yeehaw :)
1963 Spyder, restored   4spd Saginaw
1967 Ultravan #299  Newest of the herd!! Almost killed me already!!


http://photos.yahoo.com/duchesskyra
A few pictures of the Greenbrier, UltraVan, engine and tranny tear down with
more to come! 

Cash said:
>Wouldn't the changing temperature give the various metals  
>the opportunity to leak? Is there a way to solve this?