<VV> Need garage ideas (no Corvair)

[JVHRoberts at aol.com]

Ya know, for electrical, maybe just run a 60 amp, 10 slot sub panel into  the 
garage. Slots are cheap, a 10 slot cost hardly any more than a 4 slot. 
Then you can do whatever you want from there. Separate breakers for the  
welder and compressor, multiple breakers for outlets separate from garage door  
openers, etc. 
 
In a message dated 8/7/2007 11:41:30 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
corvairduval at cox.net writes:

More  comments within,,,

BBRT wrote:

> Comments  within........
> ----- Original Message ----- From:  <JVHRoberts at aol.com>
> To: <latin81 at comcast.net>;  <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 5:33  PM
> Subject: Re: <VV> Need garage ideas (no  Corvair)
>
>
>
> Hmmm... run at least one 20 amp 120V  circuit, and at least one 30 amp  
> 240V
> circuit, for  welders, big air compressors, etc.
> *** The more outlets around the  garage the better. Code may dictate 
> they be up around waist high. I  would have at least two on each wall, 
> and would prefer one on the  wall between the doors and near the 
> doors.  You can then use  lights or corded appliances without such long 
> extension cords running  underfoot. 


The NEC (National Electric Code) does not care where  you place the 
receptacles in a garage, but fire code sometimes likes them  above 18" 
off the floor for areas where gasoline may be present. Local  
interpretation may have other ideas. NEC will require 120V receptacles  
in a concrete floor garage to be GFCI protected unless dedicated to a  
piece of equipment ( freezer, sump pump, etc). If you have a dedicated  
bench, place receptacles convienient for that also.

The more  receptacles the better. Better chance of not blocking them with 
equipment  and storage units. I like them every 5 to 6 feet.

Also, know your  loads. My welder needs a 50 amp 240 volt receptacle. My 
compressor also  needs 40 amps at 240, etc.

> If you can, running the air compressor  outside on a slab and then put 
> a box-fiberglass, or  built on to  the house, whatever, but it keeps 
> the noise outside. And doesn't take  up room.


Great idea to keep you sane!


> LOTS of T8, 4  foot fluorescents (less energy, electronic ballasts, starts
> down to  0ºF).
> ***If you can afford it, they make covered and protected smaller  
> flourescents that have a pig tail (cord w/ plug) and are 
>  self-contained. Mount on wall vertically near floor.  I am installing  
> a couple between the garage doors to get light at the "other" end of  
> the car. Some of these can be used portably as well.


Light  under car is important. Avoid placing lights only over the car. 
Lights  need to be over the space not occupied by the car also, so it can 
reflect  back under the car.

>
> Mini split heat pump, 24,000 BTU. Gets  heating and air conditioning 
> all in
> one shot, and non  combustion heat! And no shared equipment with the 
> rest of the
>  house.
>
> Insulated doors with good weatherstrips are a MUST! As  is general 
> insulation
> overall. You'll be glad you did when it  gets REALLY cold.
> ****Buy the steel insulated doors. They come with  good weatherstrips.
>
> Not a big fan of floor paint, I've seen  too much of it chewed up by jack
> stands, floor jacks, brown spots from  tires, etc.
> **** The big buck epoxies will stand up to it. They do  make a gray 
> concrete one step epoxy floor paint that might do it. Any  of the clear 
> sealers  are not worth it.
>
> Floor to  ceiling shelves all along the back wall, and one side, but not
> where  it'll interfere with the cars.


Most important:

You can't  build it TOO BIG! Just too expensive... ;-)

Frank  DuVal

>
>







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