<VV> regular gas and fuel economy in a 110hp corvair

[Mikeamauro at aol.com]

"...You can buy a copper spacer from the vendors that will reduce  
compression..."


 
And when you do this, you increase the quench distance within the  combustion 
head, making it MORE likely knock and ping will occur (and fuel  mileage and 
power will be reduced!!!). Keep the stock compression  ratio: (typically) 
9.5:1, and reduce the quench from the standard stock  distance of .065" down to 
approximately .032" (take the step out of the head, or  weld metal into the 
quench area... either method will require taking material  out of the combustion 
chamber, away from the quench area, to return to stock  compression ratio). 
After all this, buy premium fuel; 110s were intended  for high octane fuel... it 
will pay for itself. I've done/do  these things with both my normally 
aspirated 110's, and get mid-20's mpg  highway, @ 70-75 mph. I run 18-degrees initial 
advance and 51  jets (Both vehicles of which I speak are powerglides and have 
A/C.)  OBTW, I live in hot, engine knock-prone, Florida).
 
I don't have a "lock" on the technology: the Internet is full of articles  
explaining the concept of cylinder head quench distance reduction; it's all  
about enhancing flame propagation and turbulence in the combustion chamber;  
adding thicker head and base gasket REDUCES both. 
Try this link... read through the whole article:
 
_http://racingarticles.com/article_racing-10.html_ 
(http://racingarticles.com/article_racing-10.html)     "...Since it is the close collision between the 
piston and the cylinder head  that reduces the prospect of detonation, never 
add a shim or head gasket to  lower compression on a quench head engine. If you 
have 10:1 with a proper quench  and then add an extra .040" gasket to give 
9.5:1 and .080" quench, you will  create more ping at 9.5:1 than you had at 
10:1..."
 
If you want your Corvair to run well on today's gasoline, be prepared to  
improve the combustion chamber, thoroughly de-flash the cylinder head cooling  
fins, and R&R the bottom shrouds with the seasons. I also use Safeguard  knock 
control systems; pricey, but worth it.
 
Mike Mauro
67 110 Factory A/C Coupe with 3:27 diff & PG trans
64 Greenbrier 110, "Mike Mauro" A/C with 3:55 diff & PG trans
64 Spyder Convert (but not part of this  discussion)  



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