<VV> Re: Brake Bleeder is Broken

[Mike Kost]

Vicegrips also makes a nice set of pliers which have jaws which clamp 
nicely onto a hex fitting without damage. They come in several sizes and 
do a wonderful job (if you have room).

Mike Kost

Frank DuVal wrote:
> First, flare wrenches are one place where good quality tools is better 
> than cheap tools. I have been happy with the Husky brand at Home Depot 
> recently. I picked them up when on sale.
>
> Vise Grips are another place where the name brand works so much better 
> than any off brand I have used.
>
> Use Vise Grips to really hold the flare wrench onto the flare nut. Put 
> the wrench on first, then adjust the vise grips to grab the flare 
> tighter. This usually helps keep from rounding off the nut flats. In 
> the worst case, you need heat, and lots of it. Mapp gas torch at 
> least. But there is a REAL danger of fire. DO not do this if there is 
> any gasoline leak. An Oxy-Acetelyne torch is best, but hundreds of 
> dollars to buy one.
>
> After the nuts have rounded off, and you are replacing the lines 
> anyway, just use lots of penetrating oil  and then apply vise grips 
> directly without the flare wrench. And,  if you are putting in new 
> wheel cylinders and lines, just cut the line at the nut.
>
> Remember to use two wrenches when removing/ replacing lines at hoses 
> and junction blocks.
>
> No need to drill holes in trunk, but you might need two new gas tank 
> strap bolts. Loosen the nuts on the gas tank strap bolts as far as you 
> can. You can (tape the end first to keep dirt out) fish a new gas line 
> above the tank without removing the gas tank. It will not be held by 
> the factory clips, and sometimes the old line will get stuck and 
> cannot be removed. But this is repair work, not restoration work. 
> Later when  you have the tank out you can remove the old line and 
> route the new line correctly.
>
> As John and tim have said recently, replace all the steel lines, as 
> they rust out and cause instant brake failure. BTDT, even with dual 
> master. Twice!
>
> Frank DuVal
>
>
>
> Matthew Klopfer wrote:
>
>> Alright, I've already proven my ignorance. A quick glance at the shop 
>> manual shows that the valve goes directly into the back of the 
>> cylinder. So I'll need to replace that, which doesn't seem quite as 
>> daunting.
>> Sure, I have brake lines new in the box. I also have brake hoses. The 
>> reason these are still in the box and not on the car is because I 
>> CANNOT get the old lines off. That will present a major problem for 
>> me as I try to finish up this project.
>> Does anyone have any good tips for getting these off? Penetrating 
>> fluid has done nothing.
>> My flare wrenches slide along the fittings and grip them in the next 
>> position without actually moving them at all. This is infuriating. It 
>> makes me want to cut off all of the parts, drill two new holes in the 
>> trunk, and make my own way. How un-advisable is that?
>>
>> Matt 1968 Monza 110 Convertible
>>
>>
>>  
>>
>>  
>>
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