<VV> Re: Brake Bleeder is Broken

[James Davis]

My NAPA caries all sorts of brake bleeder screws.  I have replaced 
FC, cars and Ultra Van bleeder's from their collection.  They also 
carry a great line of flare wrenches in there custom tool line.  The 
3/8 - 7/16 one I bought last month is cold, drop forged and has a 
head about 5/8 of an inch wide.  Cost $10.
Jim Davis

At 07:58 AM 1/9/2007, corvair at mts.net wrote:
>Matt,
>
>Don't cut new holes. If you are replacing the brake lines anyways, 
>just cut them off close to the end fitting and use a socket to 
>remove the fittings. You must have to spend a lot of money on flare 
>nut wrenches to get good ones - I've never actually found ones that 
>work "as advertised" without slipping.
>
>Les
>corvair at mts.net
>
>Message: 1
>Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 22:07:14 -0800 (PST)
>From: Matthew Klopfer <corvairdroptop at yahoo.com>
>Subject: <VV> Re: Brake Bleeder is Broken
>To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Message-ID: <20070109060715.67687.qmail at web33314.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ascii
>
>Alright, I've already proven my ignorance. A quick glance at the 
>shop manual shows that the
>valve goes directly into the back of the cylinder. So I'll need to 
>replace that, which doesn't
>seem quite as daunting.
>
>Sure, I have brake lines new in the box. I also have brake hoses. 
>The reason these are still in
>the box and not on the car is because I CANNOT get the old lines 
>off. That will present a major
>problem for me as I try to finish up this project.
>
>Does anyone have any good tips for getting these off? Penetrating 
>fluid has done nothing.
>
>My flare wrenches slide along the fittings and grip them in the next 
>position without actually
>moving them at all. This is infuriating. It makes me want to cut off 
>all of the parts, drill
>two new holes in the trunk, and make my own way. How un-advisable is that?
>
>Matt