<VV> Re: Brake Bleeder is Broken

[corvair at mts.net]

Matt,

Don't cut new holes. If you are replacing the brake lines anyways, just cut them off close to the end fitting and use a socket to remove the fittings. You must have to spend a lot of money on flare nut wrenches to get good ones - I've never actually found ones that work "as advertised" without slipping.

Les
corvair at mts.net

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 22:07:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Matthew Klopfer <corvairdroptop at yahoo.com>
Subject: <VV> Re: Brake Bleeder is Broken
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <20070109060715.67687.qmail at web33314.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ascii

Alright, I've already proven my ignorance. A quick glance at the shop manual shows that the 
valve goes directly into the back of the cylinder. So I'll need to replace that, which doesn't 
seem quite as daunting. 

Sure, I have brake lines new in the box. I also have brake hoses. The reason these are still in 
the box and not on the car is because I CANNOT get the old lines off. That will present a major 
problem for me as I try to finish up this project. 

Does anyone have any good tips for getting these off? Penetrating fluid has done nothing. 

My flare wrenches slide along the fittings and grip them in the next position without actually 
moving them at all. This is infuriating. It makes me want to cut off all of the parts, drill 
two new holes in the trunk, and make my own way. How un-advisable is that?

Matt 
1968 Monza 110 Convertible