<VV> Re: Lower Ball JOints and other questions
ricknorris at suddenlink.net
Wed Nov 21 21:05:55 EST 2007
Universal joints rarely look bad on the outside. Inside can be another
matter. Usually the grease that was on the needle bearings is all it has
ever senn and that will dry out after the years go by. The dry needles will
become pulverized and some times they will squeek. You can usually work the
axle back and forth and see if the U-joint moves inside the bearing cups.
Also some folks are not careful when replacing or servicing them and do not
notice if any of the small needle bearings have fallen out or got stuck to
the bottom of the shaft.
>I did not know I can take them apart. The u-joints don't look rusty, I
>presumed it was cause they get the rust knocked off them as I drive. They
>look smooth and shiny. I will have to take a better look at them. I
>presume I have to take it all apart to get to them.
> Chris & Bill Strickland wrote:
>>> Also the how do I tell if my universal joints are bad. They are the non
>>> grease able type, ...
>> You just mean it that it is your opinion that it is too much work to take
>> them apart to grease them, don't you?
>> Just because they don't have zerk fittings is no reason you can't service
>> them, if you want to. Also removal is a good way to inspect them for
>> wear that may lead to failure -- they'll start to show little grooves on
>> the cross arms. If they are rusty, they've failed. Also a good time to
>> replace them with what may be for you a more serviceable u-joint with an
>> external zerk, but some folks think this type u-joint is weaker and more
>> prone to failure -- 'spose it just depends on how hard you run 'em.
>> PS: is there a Bfh on page M-9, and a HD jack stand?
>>> > so rusty I broke the bolt < < both ends? -- try turning it now
>>> that you've lubed it until it frees up -- oxy-acytelene works, if you
>>> can deal with the stink and fire.
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