<VV> Re: Lower Ball JOints and other questions
corvairduval at cox.net
Wed Nov 21 07:22:47 EST 2007
If I go through the trouble to press a u-joint out of a Corvair yoke
(remember I'm in the rusty east), it had better be in excellent shape
for me not to consider just pressing a new one in. Especially after it
has withstood the force needed to break the rust bond.
But most show signs of wear on the machined cross sections, little
RI Corviar wrote:
> I did not know I can take them apart. The u-joints don't look rusty,
> I presumed it was cause they get the rust knocked off them as I
> drive. They look smooth and shiny. I will have to take a better look
> at them. I presume I have to take it all apart to get to them.
> Chris & Bill Strickland wrote:
>>> Also the how do I tell if my universal joints are bad. They are the
>>> non grease able type, ...
>> You just mean it that it is your opinion that it is too much work to
>> take them apart to grease them, don't you?
>> Just because they don't have zerk fittings is no reason you can't
>> service them, if you want to. Also removal is a good way to inspect
>> them for wear that may lead to failure -- they'll start to show
>> little grooves on the cross arms. If they are rusty, they've failed.
>> Also a good time to replace them with what may be for you a more
>> serviceable u-joint with an external zerk, but some folks think this
>> type u-joint is weaker and more prone to failure -- 'spose it just
>> depends on how hard you run 'em.
>> PS: is there a Bfh on page M-9, and a HD jack stand?
>>> > so rusty I broke the bolt < < both ends? -- try turning it now
>>> that you've lubed it until it frees up -- oxy-acytelene works, if
>>> you can deal with the stink and fire.
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