<VV> RE: New Clutch Isnt Working

Steve Brennan Alohaz at ca.rr.com
Fri Nov 23 02:37:06 EST 2007

Wow, Bill.  I never would have thought of that scenario.  But at this point,
I am beginning to wonder . . ..   I do recall that the pilot shaft bushing
fit rather tight on the shaft.  However, I did pre-oil it per the books.  If
there are any tips on how to best "run it in" while reducing the chance of
spinning the bushing in the flywheel, I am all ears.  

My efforts to "burn" the clutch in, by slowly letting the clutch out while
the car is blocked in place, have shown no improvement in the problem.
(Does anyone know if a Kevlar clutch will take longer to "burn in?")  So, as
of now, your "direct drive" scenario is definitely in play.

Thanks again, Bill.

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Meglen [mailto:tirediron at charter.net] 
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2007 8:14 PM
To: Steve Brennan; Virtual Vairs
Subject: Re: <VV> New Clutch Isnt Working

Don't want to be a pessimist, and not sure the symptoms match exactly my
experience, clutch in, difficult to get in gear, car "creeps" but after
replacing a pilot shaft bushing that was too tight and perhaps because it
was not recessed in far enough (just flush) into the flywheel, I found that
the effect was "direct drive" i.e the pilot shaft was so tight that it
wasn't spinning in the oillite bushing, in fact when torn apart the bushing
itself had spun in the flywheel.  Some well meaning posters were skeptical
(i.e. A bumblebee can't fly!).  It did and I saw it. Advice to "run it in"
to increase clearance was ineffective in my case (the bushing had spun
allready) although it may worth your trying.  Prescriptively I will never
use a bushing that tight. I will assure that the bushing is driven in
(perhaps till it bottoms in the flywheel). I will use the "oiling" of the
bushing as described by several responders to my post and I will be sure
that bell housing/diff mating surfaces have no gap before drawing down the
bolts to assure that I do not inadvertantly draw the pilot shaft shoulder so
tightly to the bushing that it contributes with the tight internal fit to
the "direct drive" to engine I experienced.


On 11/21/07 23:40, "Steve Brennan" <Alohaz at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> I just installed a new Kevlar clutch in my 1962 Spyder Coupe.  All seemed
> go well with the installation of the clutch and putting the drivetrain
> in the car, at least until I started the engine and tried  putting the car
> in gear (while the car was still on stands).  While I can get it into 1st,
> 2nd and 3rd gear, it does not feel smooth, as it was before installing the
> new clutch.  Worse yet, if I try to put it into 4th gear or reverse, it
> grinds, as if I was not stepping on the clutch at all.  Double pumping,
> has no effect on this problem.
> I have reviewed pix I took during the installation process, and it appears
> the clutch disk is in properly, as the weld bead on the hub is on the
> pressure plate side, and I cannot see the any evidence of the imprinted
> words "Flywheel Side" through the pressure plate fingers.   In addition,
> the linkage appeared to line up properly and I have checked and rechecked
> the clutch adjustments several times.
> While I dread the thought of pulling the drivetrain out again, if that is
> what needs to be done, then so be it.  But I would really appreciate any
> suggestions or  advice before I start all over.
> Thanks in advance, and Happy Thanksgiving to all.
> Steve Brennan
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