<VV> New Clutch Isnt Working - UPDATE

Steve Brennan Alohaz at ca.rr.com
Sat Nov 24 20:02:39 EST 2007


Frank,

Thanks for the explanation.  I see your point.  

 

So in preparation for getting the car down and properly testing the system,
I removed all slack from the clutch release rod (in fact I compressed the
pressure plate as much as I could by hand in order to maximize the throw of
the clutch pedal).   I then took Greg Shaw's advice and removed the starterm
which allowed me to watch the throw out bearing at work (with the aid of a
mechanics mirror.)  All appears to be working  as it should be.  (Does
anyone know what the normal throw distance is for the bearing on the shaft?)
I then put the car in first gear and confirmed I could not turn the rear
wheels (by pushing on them simultaneously with my feet)  I then had my
daughter fully depress the clutch and found that, with some considerable
effort, I was able to turn the wheels, BUT I could also hear the clutch
rubbing on the pressure plate/flywheel.  (Am I right  in concluding from
these facts that my problem is unlikely to be a seized pilot bushing?) 

 

Given that my clutch release rod adjustment must have the throw out bearing
riding on the pressure plate fingers to begin with, and I can see the
bearing being pressed further into the pressure plate when the clutch pedal
is depressed, I can't figure out why there would still be so much
contact/friction with the clutch disk.   Could this simply be due to an
excessively thick clutch plate and I should continue on with the "on the
ground" burn in efforts?  Or does any of this dictate that I just cut to the
chase and drop the drive train (although I really am not sure what I would
be looking for).  I am hoping for the former, but willing to accept the
latter.

 

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Steve Brennan

 

 

From: Frank DuVal [mailto:corvairduval at cox.net] 
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 9:15 AM
To: Steve Brennan
Cc: 'Lon Wall'; virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: Re: <VV> New Clutch Isnt Working

 

What Lon means it that for the synchronizers to work properly in a
transmission, everything has to be like it is driving on the road. The fluid
has to be at the right level and viscosity. The wheels need to be in contact
with the pavement. When the tires are in the air, you don't have the
friction element that slows the gears to mesh properly.

Also, the manual transmission is a very weak fluid coupling, due to the
viscosity of the gear lube, so even with the transmission in neutral, a very
slight amount of power is transmitted through to the output shaft. The tires
resting on the ground will never turn with this slight power, but up in the
air they can.

Frank DuVal





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