<VV> HID headlight converstion kit

[Roger Gault]

Running the extra wires for both headlights and brakelights is a good idea -
even/especially with our dim stock lights.  It will make a large difference
in brightness.  I've been trying to get up the energy to do that for years.
If you do, PLEASE, PLEASE fuse those lines immediately where you take them
off the battery.

Roger "One Tunnel Fire Was Enough" Gault

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Elliott" <corvair at fnader.com>
To: "Marc Marcoulides" <hharpo at earthlink.net>
Cc: <roadrashgixer at msn.com>; <virtualvairs at corvair.org>; <sethracer at aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: <VV> HID headlight converstion kit


> Not Seth, but I'll chime in...
>
> V=IR
>
> As current runs through wiring there is a loss from resistance. As it
> goes through switches, even more.
>
> The stock Corvair wiring goes from the battery in the back of the car
> through the headlamp switch, through the dimmer switch, and finally to
> the headlamp. The voltage at the headlamp is therefore lower than the
> voltage at the battery. And the amount of light put out by headlamps is
> strongly related to voltage (sorry I don't have the formual handy, but
> suffice it to say you can visibly see the difference in a fraction of a
> volt's difference... and  with some voltage dropage exceeding a volt,
> the difference can be dramtic.)
>
> So you want to take the switches out of the circuit to reduce
> resistance. The switches now only control the relay which then directly
> port battery voltage to the lamps. You still have the resistance caused
> by the wiring itself (and a very very small drop due to the rely) but
> compared to the drop at the switches, it's almost inconsequential.
>
> The switches are also a common point of failure (as much as almost any
> part of the very reliable Corvair electrical system anyway) ... the less
> current they carry (virtually none switching only the relays), the
> longer they last. This also allows you to run higher wattage lamps
> (disclaimer: may not be street legal) if you prefer.
>
> The great thing about the E-code halogens is the light is concentrated
> where you need it... so more voltage getting to the lamps... and/or
> higher wattage lamps... really provide increased light right where you
> need it, not generally scattered like US-spec lens tend to do.
>
> Easy to hook up... you run a large gauge wire forward directly from the
> battery (less R = more V) then use the existing wiring to switch the
> relays. You can use a single relay for both sides (one for high, one for
> low) or relay each lamp individually.  Having fused relays is a good
idea...
>
> On my car I'm running standard wattage sealed beam halogens for low
> beams (not relayed) and relayed "light up the world" E-code H-1s for the
> high beams...
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
> Marc Marcoulides wrote:
>
> >Seth, please provide a plain english explanation of the
necessity/usefulness of the relay
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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