<VV> Removing the wheel cylinder entrails

[Stephen Upham]

	I was able to get the entrails out yesterday by taking the two  
attaching bolts off the backing plate.  The front one should be REAL  
fun to reattach.  REMEMBER this is a practically NEW cylinder from a  
well known right coast vendor that failed to seal on the piston that  
faces rearward after approximately 2K of use.  I looked at the walls  
of the cylinder.  There appears to be a LITTLE discoloration near the  
area where the rubber piston would normally rest, but no scaring,  
rust, or other surface imperfections that would lead me to go "AHA,  
that's why it failed".  I see no reason that it would require a re- 
honing.
	I can add that I did do a "no-no" a couple of months ago.  Because  
there was a pulling to the right, I checked the fluid level.  Because  
it was down, I looked at the brakes with the drums off.  When I  
noticed that there was fluid on the left front, I pressed the brakes  
to see if fluid would come out of the pistons.  Yeah, well I know NOW  
not to do that!   Anyway, I worked to line up the brake shoes so that  
I could get the drum back on.
	OK, fast forward to today.  I will replace the entrails, the shoes,  
the rear hoses, and attempt to put the front brake assembly back  
together.

Three questions:

Does anyone have a better description of the various parts of the  
brakes and the order of reattachment?  The manual mentions parts that  
I have no picture to reference.  Ditto my Clarks catalog.  I was  
reduced to using my Hayne's manual for our '01 Durango that has rear  
drum brakes to try to identify some parts.

Can the flushing can be done with A) the old fluid [four years old]   
B) alcohol C) another substance I'm not aware of?

What is the best fluid to use that will inhibit rust, but not require  
a complete replacement of all parts (remember, except for the lines,  
the major parts only have about 4K on them)?  I'm not looking for  
"set and forget", I have no problem with bleeding the system every  
couple of years when necessary, nor will I need extreme temps as this  
is a family sport-about, but I do want to be as proactive as possible  
to reduce the affects of internal rust until I can afford to replace  
everything and install silicone fluid.


Stephen Upham