<VV> dreaded flex plate bolts

[Chris & Bill Strickland]

I don't dread flex plate bolts -- don't know why you would.   [HRPT's 
are another matter.]   Preferably, I like to replace them with a 
flywheel, 4-speed, and related parts, but since I have this sorta 
originalish 1960 700 auto, I have been known to tighten them up, and 
didn't give it a minutes extra thought, just tightened 'em up with a 
wrench or two -- really don't remember 'cause it was a non-event -- 
yeah, the drivetrain was probably on the ground the last time, but if 
you can't R&R it in an hour, you need more practice, so get busy.  Or 
tighten 'em up where they are at -- doesn't sound like it should be "an 
isssue".

But maybe it is?  okay -- the flex plate is a nearly flat piece of sorta 
triangular shaped steel with some holes in the center, and three near 
the perimeter of the points.  There should be nothing welded to or 
otherwise attached to a stock  flex plate.

Three special bolts attach the converter to the flex plate by inserting 
these bolts through the holes -- anybody got specs on these bolts -- 
they are probably in Clark's catalogs -- and tightening them. normally, 
the converter has equally special but matching nuts loosly held in place 
behind the foot that you bolt up to the front side of the flex plate 
(the bolt head is in the back) -- Lonzo acurately described them as, 
"the nut has a pair of "keepers" on it that should expand and hold it 
into the bracket on the torque converter".  okay, so some yahoo has lost 
the correct bolts and nuts and substituted some off the shelf grade 5 or 
such -- won't work. you need the special factory parts, bolt AND nut.  
the other thing that can happen is some converter rebuilder could have 
helped you out by doing something else stupid with the nuts, like 
welding them down, meaning your converter is junque, or worse, welded in 
some stock size nuts that would fit GM V-8's.  I'm sure it has happened.

And, I think you need to add a new rule to your toolbox -- any 
assumption that you make is probably wrong ("nuts were brazed to the 
mounting plate adjacent to the flex plate, is that a correct 
assumption?"), so either quit making assumptions (Vair facts are easy to 
find.-- there are books full of them -- no need for assumptions), or 
make it, and keep it in your file of bad ideas.  The bolts should be 
easy to change in car -- the nuts, much less so.

Look at the pics in the service manual -- that is what you should see. 
should be no problem to tighten up, and you shouldn't have to think 
twice about it.  but since you are thinking about it too much, something 
must be wrong, and you are going to have to decide what it is and fix 
it, or get someone else to fix it, or go get a car you can tear apart 
for reference.

don't think you can damage those bolts much, but running loose does some 
amazing things, including putting burrs on the edge of the flex plate 
hole that need to be removed (both sides, front & back) to torque the 
bolts properly.  if the holes are elongated, you should probably replace 
the flex plate.

I've never had to use lock tite on any gm flex plate bolts of any type 
to get them to hold -- proper torque has always worked for me, or at 
least what my wrist says is proper torque (tighten enough bolts by hand 
and you learn a thing or two -- sorta like using your head to add 
instead of a claculator).

Bill Strickland