<VV> advice for what to tune up....

[shortle]

That is a great question:(what to tune up). If you are using points for your ignition make sure your point gap/dwell is correct and then your initial ignition timing is set to specs (w/ the vacuum hose disconnected and plugged going to the distributor). Then make sure your spark plugs are the proper type with proper gap and that they are clean (not fouled). If you are certain the ignition system is in proper order, then it is time to address the fuel system. A great book is Bob Helts HOW TO IDENTIFY/REBUILD CORVAIR CARBS". It is available thru vendors and even the author himself. It makes for easy reading with plenty of explanations and pictures. Strongly recommended. Of course, look for vacuum leaks. The hoses connecting the vacuum balance tube are known for leaks. Make sure carbs are tight. etc. etc. Good luck.
I hope this is helpful.
Timothy Shortle in Durango Colorado    

-----Original Message-----
>From: Sethracer at aol.com
>Sent: Apr 18, 2009 10:05 PM
>To: fly2xs at gmail.com, virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Subject: <VV> advice for what to tune up....
>
> 
>In a message dated 4/18/2009 7:16:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,  
>fly2xs at gmail.com writes:
>
>Hello  all, this is my first post to this list.
>I inherited my mothers 1962 Monza  900 Convertible in November.  Yesterday
>was the first time it has been  driven in a long time.  A number of years 
>ago
>the entire drive train  (engine to wheel bearings) was rebuilt and there is
>only 340 miles on the  odometer now.
>
>It took a bit of time but it is now running and sounds  good.  I have a
>Couple of issues I am hoping to get some insight  on.
>
>1. On deceleration and Idle, the engine will backfire softly. No  backfiring
>on acceleration or maintaining speed.
>2. When the engine is  cold it will not idle by itself.
>3. Acceleration is rough except on wide  open throttle.
>4. Gen/Fan light glows during idle and is very very faint  while driving on
>the highway.
>
>
>
>Brett - Almost all of the above symptoms are indicators of Carb issues.  
>Sitting for a long time is tough on the inside of Carbs and the rest of the 
>fuel  system as well. I suppose you have cleaned out the tank and the lines, 
>so the  carbs are being supplied with enough clean gas. The Corvair carb is 
>one of the  easiest carbs to rebuild. If you pick up a couple of rebuild kits 
>and thoroughly  clean out and systematically rebuild the carbs, that is a 
>good first step. Two  things that can trip up a first-timer with the Corvair 
>Carbs is setting the idle  speeds and the choke alignment. While removing 
>the carbs, check to see if the  choke springs provide a good spring-loaded 
>vertical thrust to the rods. It is  easy to misalign these and have them catch 
>inside the passage in the head. When  cold, those choke springs should 
>provide plenty of upward thrust to push the  chokes closed and raise the idle. 
>(The chokes are only pushed closed when the  throttle has been pushed open.) 
>When the motor warms up just a bit, those  springs relax and the rods are 
>pulled down, unloading the chokes and dropping  the fast-idle cams away from 
>the throttle arms. Setting the idle speed, and  balancing the idle between the 
>two carbs is a procedure that you would be best  consulting the shop 
>manual. It usually involves a special tool such as a vacuum  gage or Unisyn to 
>measure flow. You will need to disconnect the link from the  throttle 
>cross-shaft to the drivers side carb during the idle speed  balance setting. 
>Otherwise, your adjustments on one carb are fed across via the  shaft linkage and 
>tweak the other side settings. The trick is to get  both carbs passing the 
>same amount of air at idle, the idle down to a  reasonable RPM - this depends a 
>bit on the transmission type - and the  engine to idle with no vacuum 
>feeding to the vacuum advance unit. It is a  balancing act.  
> 
>You can check the real charging voltage by measuring the voltage at the  
>battery during Higher RPM running, or in a pinch, on the road. There is no  
>charge at idle with a generator, but the voltage should go up as the engine 
>RPM  increases. If it doesn't, start looking at the regulator or Generator as 
>the  culprit, but always clean the battery cables well as the first step. 
>
>
>Any  insight would be greatly helpful.  I am in the Seattle Area and hope  
>to
>see those in the area at future meet ups!
>There is a great group in your Backyard (Don't run and check - I mean  
>figuratively).  Corsa Northwest has a history of Corvair help. And there is  a 
>great Corvair event coming up - a bit East, but worth the drive. It is the  
>NorthEast Econorun.   
>>From their information page:
>"The dates are Friday June 12th through Sunday June 14th. More information  
>about the show and the Econorun is available here:  
>http://www.corvair.org/pdf/2009EconorunRegistration.pdf
>If you can make it,  it should be quite a weekend.
>
>Enjoy driving that car, Brett. If it has really old tires, do a thorough  
>check on them before driving much.
>
> 
>Seth  Emerson
>
>C's the Day! - Corvair, Camaro, Corvette
>
>
>
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