<VV> Engine Problems Downunder

[BobHelt at aol.com]

Hello Mark,
I don't know if I can help that much but please see comments below.
Regards,
Bob Helt
 
In a message dated 1/11/2009 8:48:53 AM US Mountain Standard Time,  
smluther at optusnet.com.au writes:

Q1.  We have pulled out the engine to replace the bushing to the  
transmission, and the rear oil seals etc. etc. There are now NO
oil  leaks.   However, when putting back the engine my mechanic
tried  another pressure plate from a spare engine I own.  This of course
was  the later type and now we know, doesn’t fit or work.
 
>From what you are saying, yours is a 1960-63 corvair? Is that correct? It  
makes a difference as you noted since the 1960-63s used a different flywheel and 
 clutch than the 1964-69s. 
 
That means you must have a flat surface flywheel vs the stepped one on the  
Late models. You then want to use the "flat fingered pressure plate" as opposed 
 to the bent-finger one. The factory supplied clutch disks are all the same. 
The  throw out bearings are different length too.
 
 



As a result we went back to the old pressure plate and also put  on a
new clutch which I recently purchased.  The result however is  that
the clutch peddle needs to be pushed completely down to release
and  that there is a slipping of the clutch when engaging into gear.
My mechanic  discussed putting
spacers  (washers) to reduce the space of the clutch  disc.

Perhaps I am not explaining this properly – basically I have a  slipping
engagement of the clutch between gears.  What can be  done?
 
It sounds like you are saying that when you dis-engage the clutch by  
pressing the pedal to the floor, you are still getting some clutch engagement or  
dragging that is causing problems. This could be caused by several things but  
have you tried adjusting the clutch rods length? It is possible to add spacers  
or washers inder the PP but that will lessen the engagement power and I don't  
recommend it. Maybe adding another hole in the clutch rods or fork might  
increase the movement leverage and would help. 
 
Do you have the correct throw out bearing? It could be a contributing  factor 
too. 
 
Try this....Disconnect the 3' long rod that is attached to the fork, but at  
the other end. Then bracing your feet against something pull on the end of 
this  rod. It should have free movement up until it causes the T/O bearing to 
contact  the fingers. Then pulling the rod should cause the T/O bng to depress 
the  fingers and it will release the disk with a "snap"  If that happens ithe  
clutch should work OK. if not you may have to investigate further.
Sorry.




Q2.  I have installed the SOURCE electronic ignition  and have tried to get
an answer without luck to this next question.   The ignition either can be 
adjusted
to allow the engine to ‘flutter’ at the  low end (acceleration start) or ‘
flutters’
at the top-end (at the end of  acceleration).  This is sort of a gasping for 
fuel  effect.
 
i don't understand.......No flutter should exist. What is causing  that?  
What do you mean by "adjusted"? I didn't think that there was any  adjustment in 
is ign? please explain.
 
Regards,
Bob Helt
 



Anyway, my technician was wondering whether the voltage on the  ignition
should change from 12V to 6 V due to the resistor connection? (or  should it 
remain at 12 V?)  
Is this supposed to happen?  What  should / could be  checked to eliminate 
this fluttering effect?

I  would appreciate a posting of my questions to any and everyone that can  
possible assist
and answer.




**************New year...new news.  Be the first to know what is making 
headlines. (http://news.aol.com?ncid=emlcntusnews00000002)