<VV> Defining a cars value - how to listen for deals ...

[Charles Lee]

My brother bought an oil pointing once, and when he wasn't sure if the price 
was fair, asked the owner if there any other things that she had ?

"No, not really," at which my brother was piqued.

"Oh ?  What else do you have ?"
"Well, there's a little notebook with little paintings in it but it's just 
pieces of the big painting, so I didn't think it was important."

He bought the painting, and now ALWAYS listens for that "Not really 
anything, but ..."

Back when, I called an about an ad for a 64 Corvair that was in "OK" 
condition, but needed to be towed so I didn't think it was worth the effort, 
until his wife said "the wheels keep coming loose and it's too much 
trouble."

I rented a trailer and towed the 64 Spyder and all 5 wire wheels home that 
night.
The turbo cam back to life after about 5000 miles, since they probably never 
shifted over 1500 RPM, so it was in hibernation ...

I sold the car to someone who liked EMs (I'm more LM), but kept the wheels 
even though they didn't fit my LMs.

I did learn to like EMs though - classic lines and what a great car !!!!!

Thanks for listening !

Charlie



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J R Read_HML" <hmlinc at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Smitty Smith" <vairologist at verizon.net>; <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: <VV> Defining a cars value


> OK - that is a good approach but just a bit too tedious for me.  After 
> all,
> the price is what the buyer and seller agree upon.  If there is no
> agreement, there is no sale.
>
> So, I go to OCPG and try to evaluate by their 6 category guide.  In this
> case, I come up with - not as good as a 4 and not as bad as a 5, but 
> close.
>
> Look up the car (or nearest) in question and price it 1/4 to 1/3 above a 
> 5 -
> between 5 and 4.  If you cannot agree in that range, don't buy it
>
> But... a BIG one....  before you start talking to the seller about OCPG
> (have it in your back pocket)....  Just ask the simple question, "What did
> you have in mind?"  Once you've done your research and are confident about
> your max offer - you just might find out that you are buying a bargain
> because his/her number might be well below yours.
>
> The other thing that can happen....  ask (after the price is agreed) - 
> "Are
> there other parts laying about that should go with it?"
>
> Oh - just this Spyder (Corsa) dash and extra wheels with a funny hammer.
>
> NOW.. ya' got a bargain!
>
> Later, JR
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Smitty Smith" <vairologist at verizon.net>
> To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:46 PM
> Subject: <VV> Defining a cars value
>
>
>> Smitty says;   Paul if you want to do it right it will take some work.
>> Start off with a top value concours car value.  (Not a BJ nutcase value).
>> On a long lined paper pad write down bumper, rear.  If that bumper is not
>> a flawless 100 pt concourse then it will need a replate.  No halfway 
>> about
>> this now.  It will need replate.  Put down $300 or what ever the show
>> quality price is now.  Move on to tail lights.check the chrome light
>> rings.  If they are nor perfect, write them down and move on.  Bodywork
>> holes?  Price them at bodyshop prices.  It's easy to run up $2,000 in
>> small repairs on body work.  Keep going, on upholstery, instruments, 
>> wiper
>> motor, carbs, convert top, and on and on.  Don't cheat yourself by 
>> saying,
>> I can fix that.  When you are done with marking flaws then add at least
>> $5,000 for a paint job.  Let the seller in on what you are doing and how
>> you are ariving at prices.  (Clarks book is good).  After adding
>> everything up, subtract that
>> value from the top concours value you started with.  Yeah you are going 
>> to
>> tick the seller off.  What are you in this for?  To make him smile,or buy
>> the car at a correct price.
>
>
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