<VV> Overheating - Deflashing Heads

Ron ronh at owt.com
Tue Jul 27 13:30:04 EDT 2010

I've never had an engine get hot while idling, in gear or out.  Our July 4th 
parades have been in 100 degree temperatures and we often run two PG cars in 
gear at idle and and have never had one heat up beyond normal temps.  I'd 
look for other problems also.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dale Dewald" <dkdewald at pasty.net>
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 7:08 AM
Subject: Re: <VV> Overheating - Deflashing Heads

> At 16:18 7/26/2010 -0400, Bill H wrote:
> >>>snip<<<
>>It hit me that not de-flashing my cylinder heads was a B-I-G mistake, and 
>>better do this before I take the car out again on a trip.? She still runs
>>and I
>>pray to the Al-mighty that I didn't damage her engine permanently.
>>So, does anyone have suggestions for the best (and least intrusive) way to
>>deflash the heads?? I don't mind removing the top shrouds if it doesn't
>>take all
>>day to do, and if it makes de-flashing easier.? Can de-flashing be done
>>from the
>>top of the engine instead of getting under the car
> >>>snip<<<
>>.I've heard that a?long 1/8" drill bit is the best way to go.? If that's
>>so, then I assume that this size bit will fit in between the fins?
> Yes, this job can be done in the car--it is just hard to lean over for the
> time it takes to do a good job. Unfortunately it will take most of a day 
> to
> do. Perhaps you could rig up a table to lay down upon to work at it. Here
> are some suggestions to make the job easier:
> 1) Remove the both carburetors, fuel lines, cross shaft, and fuel pump
> (stock mechanical or dummy) as one complete assembly.  After removing the
> air cleaner pieces just disconnect the fuel line from the tank at the 
> pump,
> remove the pump screw, disconnect the choke and accelerator rods, pull off
> the distributor vacuum line, remove the carburetor nuts, then lift the
> whole assembly out.
> 2) A hacksaw blade with the back side ground down works well to open up 
> all
> but the most heavily block passageways. This is where a 1/8" dia 12" long
> aircraft drill bit comes in handy. However, I like to use the thicker and
> stronger blades that fit the Milwaukee Sawz-All. A 8" or 12" tapered
> general purpose or finer tooth blade works well.  Milwaukee also sells a
> hand grip with the clamp and screw for mounting any standard blade.
> 3) Remove the lower shrouds (you will generate quite a bit of aluminum
> dust) and slide a cheap florescent shop lamp under the head you are 
> working
> on.  Take before/after photos so you can document the progress.
> 4) Check to make sure the "tempered air" hose from the top shroud to the
> heater box is in tact.  You may want to make a block off plate to fit in
> place of or under the outlet elbow for this hose. I have made a restrictor
> plate with a 1" hole in the middle to preserve yet reduce the this 
> function
> but retain stock appearance.
> Please report back to us as to what you find.
> You may want to get into the habit of shifting to neutral whenever you 
> stop
> at traffic lights or if in traffic it looks like you may be paused for a
> while. This lets the engine speed up a bit for better cooling.
> Dale Dewald
> Hancock, MI
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