<VV> Water Injection Update
gojoe283 at yahoo.com
Mon Jun 21 13:12:01 EDT 2010
I'm still working on fine-tuning the water injection on my 110 PG Monza. Due to the absence of real summer weather, it has been difficult to get the timing, and the right size nozzle, just right when the car is hot. In cool damp weather, the system is barely needed.
This week it is finally warming up, and I noticed that at around 80 degrees F outside, oil temp around 180, with a centrally-mounted 2 gph nozzle, the car still pinged slightly on hard acceleration, not during other driving conditions. I moved the timing back a notch, and I think it's better. I checked the timing setting, it's around 17 degress btdc (was around 19 before). Factory setting is 14.
My car also has a problem with the accelerator linkage returning to idle, even though I've cleaned and lubed the linkage with WD40, and I took the carbs apart and cleaned them, put in new gaskets (the carbs look fine otherwise and work okay). (Throttle shafts, return spring, all look fine with no wear)
I've gotten return springs from Clark's which may help that. If the linkeage doesn't return to idle, the pump assumes you're accelerating and it works longer than it should, causing stumbling when stopped at a light. You only really need the vapor mist on acceleration, not at any other time.
Of course, the car still runs flawlessly and accelerates as well as a modern car (not a 450-hp Camaro though), much better than before I started the project.
I added a set of LEDs: Green, master switch is on, system is ready...yellow, system is working, pump is operating, and red, switch is off (system is locked out). These are mounted on my aftermarket console and they work perfectly. The secret here is a double pole single throw toggle switch which can operate two circuits separately.
I started documenting the system in a video and PowerPoint slideshow, but again, time is the limiting factor. I still think the project is very worthwhile, as the car does run 100 percent better than before, all hesitation and flat spots are gone in the accleration curve.
it's just a matter of getting the timing and volume of the mist spray just right. I'm also going to try a stainless steel nozzle, which may improve the accumulation of deposits on the nozzle (this is an issue with brass).
Regards to all...Bill Hershkowitz 69 Monza Coupe 110 PG
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