<VV> early model engine removal question

[kevin nash]

> Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 06:30:15 -0400
> From: "Ray R. \(aka Grymm\)" <vairguy at echoes.net>
> Subject: <VV> I'm back! Also early model engine removal question and
> parts needed
> To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Message-ID: <353CBABE1489472A99AFDAB0A6CD837E at PWNT>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Greetings folks!
> 
> I've (Ray Rodriguez) been gone from this list for most of the winter due to having too much going on and being away from home a long while, so I wanted to let you all know I'm back and give you an update on my cars (further down).
> 
> My first question is: I may be about to purchase my first early model car =) if we can agree on a price and the condition is as advertised. The car I may be buying is currently not running and I might temporarily swap in the good engine from the 65' to make it driveable till the 65' is ready to hit the street. I've been using the "engine only" removal method for my late coupes where you jack up the rear of the car, unbolt from the diff/tranny and pull the engine back and out and it works GREAT for me, but I think I read that this doesn't work on early cars. Can anyone talk to me about pulling the engine from an early the fastest/easiest way? I pulled the complete drive train the first time I did it on the late cars and I find it to be a LOT more work... I'd rather avoid that if its possible.


 

Ray- I have popped lots of engines out of earlys and the only way I've ever done it is

to remove the engine and transaxle complete- with two people it takes about 1 1/2

hours (not hurrying), by myself I've done it in 3hours. The best way I've found to do

this is to use a ATV jack and a standard floor jack- put the floor jack under the transaxle,

and use the ATV jack under the engine (use two wooden blocks to support the engine

at both sides of the oil pan)- now you can very gently and slowly lower the engine and

transaxle and keep the engine and transaxle nearly level with the floor. Once the unit

is lowered far enough to clear the body, simply roll the whole works out from underneath

the car. This technique is also great for re-attaching the transaxle to the engine, as it

allows you to control the height of the engine and the transaxle independant of one another.

 

Kevin Nash

'63 spyder, daily driver
 		 	   		  
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