<VV> Heater/blower question (1963 Spyder)

Joel McGregor joelsplace at earthling.net
Wed Aug 24 13:07:35 EDT 2011


All the older GM stuff I've messed with is basically the same.  You have a hot wire going to the switch and then a different wire coming out of the switch for each speed.  The lower speeds go through a resistor for each speed and the high speed has no resistor.  I would try pulling the connector at the resistor pack to isolate where the circuit is shorted.  If it quits then it is between the resistor pack and the fan (most likely) or the resistor pack has somehow shorted to ground.  You can check this with an ohm meter between ground and any of the blades on the resistor pack.  You should read open from any blade to ground.  If it's good and the fuse still blows then check the wiring between the switch and the resistor pack.  This is all from memory and it's been a long time since I've had to mess with any of my blowers so I may have some parts out of order but the basic troubleshooting will work on anything.  Now you have a good opportunity to oil your fan motor or install a high output one.
Joel McGregor
________________________________________
From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org [virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of Kerry Born [grandpacorvair at yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 11:29 AM
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: <VV> Heater/blower question (1963 Spyder)

Hi,
Got the blower motor out with no problem BUT..it wasn't bad!

Should have disconnected it and tried the switch b/4 I pulled the motor out...hindsight is 20/20.

In any case, with the motor out, turning the fan motor switch on still blows the fuse. I am at a bit of a loss as to how the switch is wired
and how the circuit develops the three speeds. I'd prefer having at least a basic understanding before I go digging any further. Somewhere
along the line something shorted!

Thanks for any insight,

Kerry

P.S. I do have the service manuals but can't quite wrap my mind around the wiring diagrams..


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