<VV> FC False Alarm Idiot Light

Kevin Clark kevin@kcvairbrush.com kevin at kcvairbrush.com
Sat Jul 23 17:30:13 EDT 2011


Hey, here is the update.

When I removed the lower shrouds, I noticed the thermostats were  
frozen wide open. If they were failing, could they cause overheating?  
I know they will stay open AFTER they fail. They were old not new  
thermostats and they were working properly prior to the trip.

I did the troubleshooting as suggested and the idiot lights are  
working fine. I went ahead and replaced the oil pressure switch, heat  
snap switch and installed an oil pressure gauge. The van drove  
flawlessly to the Van National without any overheating issue. The oil  
pressure never fell below 24psi. I still can't say what might have  
gone wrong with the gen/fan light coming on in the first place. I do  
have a spring loaded idler and it could have been slipping. It must  
be a fluke so I'm not going to worry about it.

I should have mentioned I have 3:27 gears. I was on a very slight  
incline on a very long hill doing 55mph when both idiot lights first  
came on. So on my way to the Van National with the lower heat shrouds  
removed, no overheating occurred and there were many steep and much  
longer hills to climb on the interstate doing 60-65mph. It's obvious  
the heat shrouds was the problem.

Can the tall gears contribute to the overheating issue? I think I  
might be lugging. Will going back to 3:89 gears make cooling more  
efficient? I thought if the engine was revving higher you will get  
more cooling air blowing and be safe putting the lower heat shroud  
back on, am I right? Or will the engine get hotter? I am using 10w40  
SL. Someone suggest I go to 15w40. What do you think?

My long term goal is to tow a tiny vintage Scotty or Shasta when I  
find one and I think a 3:89 would be the way to go.

GO DANIEL!!!

KC




------------------------------
Kevin G. Clark
kevin at kcvairbrush.com
www.kcvairbrush.com




On Jul 23, 2011, at 1:34 AM, Kevin Clark kevin at kcvairbrush.com wrote:

>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Kevin G. Clark
> kevin at kcvairbrush.com
> www.kcvairbrush.com
>
> Check for a frayed wire that till complete the circuit and turn the  
> light on.
>
>  MIKE KOVACS
>
>
> Kevin,
>
> I did have the same issue on one of my cars when I first got it.   
> Though I did have some overheating issues because of debris under  
> the engine top cover I also had a contributing problem like JR's  
> comment.  The heat sink on the back of my alternator was thorougly  
> clogged with dust and what looked like plant clippings.  After I  
> brushed it all off to allow the heat sink to do its job to keep the  
> diodes cool (and did the other cooling system clean up work) the  
> problems went away.
>
> Bob Hall
> Group Corvair
> Corvanatics
> CORSA
>
>
>
> It sounds like you need to do a little troubleshooting. The first  
> thing you need to do is disconnect the oil pressure sending unit,  
> turn the key on and see what light comes on. It should only be the  
> the GEN/FAN light. If all OK there then you need to unplug the  
> Alternator 2 wire connector and ground out the oil sending wire,  
> only the TEMP/PRESS light should be on. If both are on at any time  
> there is a wiring problem. You can even reach up and take out both  
> lights from the dash to eliminate any indicating malfunction. Just  
> make sure they go back in the correct spots when done. That is  
> easily done by leaving the oil PSI wire off and turn the key on,  
> with the GEN/FAN bulb lit, just put it in the correct hole. Plug in  
> the oil PSI wire with the key on and do the same for that bulb.
>
> Ken Hand
> 248-613-8586
>
>
>
> Check all of your wiring to make sure nothing has gone to ground or  
> is shorted causing a false light. Maybe you accidentally clamped a  
> wire under the sheet metal. If not, put a pressure gage on the  
> engine to check oil pressure just in case.
> Paul
>
>
> Tim and Matt's answers cause me to think a bit further.
>
> Is this a LM or EM engine?  Does it have the appropriate lower  
> shrouds -
> long or short push rod on the thermostats?
>
> I'm GUESSING that when the engine gets hot enough a wire is  
> shorting on the
> bracket that holds the thermostat or on the push rod.  Open the  
> door at the
> rear of the lower shroud and shine some light in there to look for  
> a spot
> where the insulation has been rubbed off of the wire.  That might  
> possibly
> be your gremlin.
>
> Later, JR
>
>
> Kevin....
>
> This is pretty much a guess...
>
> You were going up a grade....  There is a loose connection (or an  
> about to
> fail diode - if that is even possible) which only exhibits a  
> problem when it
> gets hot.
>
> Later, JR
>
>
> Off hand, I'd guess that it's the TEMP switch.  Try disconnecting  
> it and see what happens.  If  there's no sign of overheating like  
> pinging, try a new switch.
> If you were on a long upgrade with a headwind, maybe it really was  
> overheating.
> RonH
>
> Hi Kevin,
> That is very strange to have both come on at the same time. For the  
> TEMP/PRESS lite I would be curious if the engine was running hot or  
> maybe your temperature "snap" switch is too sensitive. Did you  
> mention you had just installed the "lower" shrouds?
> How about the oil switch wiring? If that wire grounds out somewhere  
> it turns on the light. As far as the GEN/FAN lite, it makes no  
> sense why both would come on at the same time. How about the main  
> power feed wire connector at the multi pin connectors? That can  
> cause lots of strange issues. Engine and body grounds? Others will  
> chime in with more detailed info than I have. Whatever you find  
> please post the solution. And what year and model is your FC? Good  
> luck.
> Timothy Shortle in Durango Colorado 81301
>
> Kevin,
> The lower shroud is the culprit. The thermostat rod is expanding  
> and possibly grounding the wire going to the snap switch in the  
> head. Check it for a bare spot on the wire, where it may be  
> rubbing. OR take the right side lower shroud off and see if that  
> stops the light from coming on... I'll bet ya it does.
> Good luck!
> Lon
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Kevin Clark kevin at kcvairbrush.com <kevin at kcvairbrush.com>
>> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org; corvanatics group  
>> <corvanatics at corvair.org>
>> Sent: Sun, Jul 10, 2011 11:43 pm
>> Subject: <VV> FC False Alarm Idiot Light
>>
>>  Has anyone had a false alarm with the idiot light coming on for no
>> reason?
>>
>> I was already on the road for 35 miles when my oil pressure and gen
>> light came on in my FC. After pulling over I found the fan belt was
>> still on and I had oil right up to the full line. I started the
>> engine and it seems to be fine and I turn it around to head home.
>> After about five miles I decided to turn around again and head to the
>> Corvair show thinking there is nothing wrong. As I approached the
>> exact same spot when I first saw the lights on, I watched and the oil
>> pressure light came on again. I pulled over again, everything checked
>> out fine and I drove it back home without any problem and the idiot
>> light never came back on. They both still come on normally when I
>> turn the key on to start the engine.
>>
>> I have an internally regulated alternator on the 64 truck engine and
>> checked the voltage and its fine. Once in a while the idler pulley
>> whine when cold starting and I doubt that would have caused a false
>> alarm, would it? I replaced the oil pressure switch for good measure.
>> I did change the oil a week earlier. I have deep finned oil pan but
>> have been one quart low before without any problem. I installed the
>> lower heat shroud last week, could they have anything to do with it?
>> Is there anything else I should check?
>>
>> I'm looking forward to driving to the Van National next week and I
>> would not have time to install an oil pressure gauge.
>> Kevin
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> Kevin G. Clark
>> kevin at kcvairbrush.com
>> www.kcvairbrush.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
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