<VV> Oops - need advice

[RoboMan91324 at aol.com]

Joe,
 
It is almost certain that you only broke off the ceramic part  of the.  I 
find it hard to imagine the hex head breaking away or  rounding off before 
the threads pull out of the head.  The aluminum is  usually the weakest link.  
Did you actually break off the top including the  hex head?  Assuming the 
hex head is still there, you should try to  remove the remainder with a six 
point socket with a 1/2 Inch drive.  This  should give you better leverage.  
If the engine runs, you should first try  to get it warm.  Obviously, the 
engine will run rough with only five plugs  sparking.  The aluminum head will 
expand a little more than the steel spark  plug when hot and may make it 
easier to remove the plug.  Unfortunately,  you may end up stripping the 
aluminum threads from the head no matter  what.
 
If the other plugs are still out of the heads, check the end  for signs of 
carbon in the threads.  A common mistake is to use spark plugs  with 
extended threads that will remain exposed inside the combustion chamber and  allow 
carbon buildup there.  When you remove the sparkplug, the carbon will  
interfere with the threads in the heads and could cause damage and difficulty  
removing the plugs.  Use only plugs with the proper thread  length.
 
If the plug's hex head is gone, you will need to remove the  head.  A good 
machine shop could remove the remainder of the spark plug but  you need to 
make a decision based on cost of a new head vs. the cost of the  machine shop 
including the probability of installing a helicoil (or other  brand) plug 
insert.  If you use an incompetent machine  shop, you will probably end up 
paying for their service plus a new head because  you will not be able to use 
an insert.  If you buy a new head, make sure  you get the right part number. 
 If memory serves me, the 1965 heads used  smaller diameter bolts for 
attaching the sheet metal.  You can use a head  with the larger bolt holes but 
you may need to punch or drill out the holes  in the sheet metal for the 
larger bolts.  Also, visible bolts in the engine  compartment will have different 
sizes for the two sides.  This is not  a big deal for some but a big deal 
for others.
 
Lastly, a little general advice on how to tighten and loosen  spark plugs 
as well as bolts, nuts, etc. for this and future work.   When you push or 
pull on the end of a ratchet, you are creating the  intended rotational force 
(primary torque) as well as unintended side  load and secondary torque.  The 
primary torque is around the threaded axis  but the secondary torque will be 
to the side (right angle) of the threaded  axis.  You have two lever arms 
and are creating two torques.  One  is due to the length of the ratchet 
handle from the bolt axis and the other is  the total length of the socket and 
extensions from the threads to the ratchet  arm head.  The primary torque is 
desirable but not the other forces.   In effect, you are both turning the 
spark plug as well as both pushing  and bending it to one side.  If you use a 
deep socket and especially  if you use an extension rod, side torque is 
multiplied.  You should always  try to compensate for this.  When you push or 
pull the end of the ratchet  or breaker bar, always use an equal and opposite 
side force at the axis of  the socket/extension/bolt/spark plug where it 
meets the ratchet.  The side  torque can easily break off the ceramic portion of 
a spark plug, will increase  the torque required to loosen a bolt and could 
easily give you an inaccurate  torque when trying to use a torque wrench.  
Keep in mind that failing to  compensate for the side torque also creates 
more stress on the socket as  well.  You are more likely to crack or deform a 
socket with both axial  torque and side torque applied.  You are also more 
likely to strip the  hex of a bolt/nut head.
 
Good luck,
 
Doc
 
1960 Corvette, 1961 Rampside, 1962 Rampside, 1964 Spyder  coupe, 1965 
Greenbrier, 1966 Canadian Corsa turbo coupe, 1967 Nova SS, 1968  Camaro ragtop

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
In a message dated 3/14/2011 1:12:21 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
virtualvairs-request at corvair.org writes:

Date:  Mon, 14 Mar 2011 12:25:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Hennerfeind  <hennerfeind_joe at yahoo.com>
Subject: <VV> Oops - need  advice
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID:  <952057.33794.qm at web130207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

I don't want to ask this silly question,  but I have never had this happen 
to me and need to know the best way to  resolve it...I managed to break off 
a spark plug today in my 65 140 even  though I had been soaking it for days 
with different products. ?Where is the  best reference/guide to get the 
remainder out? ?I have a screw extractor set  but have never used it before and 
I am unsure if it will bite into it enough  to give me enough torque to try 
and get the remainder out (and if it will put  metal shavings down into the 
cylinder). ?I was planning on pulling the motor  for a reseal anyways, so 
should i just wait and pull the head and take it to a  machine shop? ?Or maybe 
just find a good used one? ?Is there any chance of  getting it out while 
the motor is still in the car - I was in the middle of  assessing the motor to 
see if it is still good (I got 120-130 lb readings with  the compression 
tester in the rest of the cylinders and this was the  last
cylinder).
Thanks,  Joe