<VV> Problems with a 140 tear down

[tkalp at cox.net]

I like Ken's idea, wish I would have known about it when I was trying to take the Shark engine apart.  If you scroll down a couple of photos on this page there are a couple of photos of the rusted 140 I was able to get apart.
http://members.cox.net/tkalp2/Shark.htm

What I ended up doing was soaking everything.  Getting the rod nuts off the rods I could reach and remove those Piston/cylinder assemblies.  Sometimes this would then allow access to the rod nuts on the opposite side. After several cylinders were removed this way I was able to turn the crank some due to the combination of pistons moving in the cylinders and cylinders moving out of the block.  This gave me access to other rod nuts and eventually I got all they cylinders off.  

One of the problems that keep an engine from turning over that hasn't been mentioned is "frozen" piston pins, so be sure to shoot some lube up there also. Good Luck and have patience.

Terry Kalp
Wichita, KS
---- Ken Pepke <kenpepke at juno.com> wrote: 
> 
> My personal experience tells me that seized engines are [perhaps] always the rings to the cylinder walls.  That makes a Corvair engine the easiest of all to 'unstick.'  First, resist the urge to use any kind of penetrants.  Remove the heads.  Next, heat the cylinder barrels, one at a time, to red hot all around in the area of the rings.  Hit the sides of the cylinder barrel with a heavy rubber mallet directing the force in such a manner as to drive the cylinder barrel out of the block and off the piston.  It is a good idea to place something under the engine [wooden box?] to catch the cylinder barrel.  It is not a good idea to try to catch it by hand.
> 
> Once off, all parts once cooled, less the rings, can be reused.
> 
> Ken P
> Wyandotte, MI
> Worry looks around; Sorry looks back, Faith looks up.
>