<VV> Fan belt tension (Clarification)

Mark Durham 62vair at gmail.com
Fri Apr 13 09:29:48 EDT 2012


So Doc, first thanks for the exacting engineering briefing. Can we then
summarize by saying the engine will grow more than the belt and the
belt will tighten up some as the engine reaches operating temperature,
not so much from the belt getting hot, but from the engine's expansion?
Mark Durham

Sent from my Windows Phone
From: RoboMan91324 at aol.com
Sent: 4/12/2012 18:02
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org; cmckinley313 at verizon.net
Subject: <VV> Fan belt tension (Clarification)
Chuck and All,

I would like to clarify some misstatements made on this  subject.

It has been stated by another that fan belts thermally expand  at a rate of
about 10 times that of steel, aluminum, etc.  This is  completely wrong for
several reasons as follow.

1.  Even if the belts were made completely of polymers,  the polymer would
expand at 3.3 times that of aluminum.  (0.000041 vs.  0.0000123 Inches per
Inch per degree F rise).  This is not close to the 10x  claimed.  Of course,
far worse, it was claimed that the belts (not  polymer alone) had a 10x
expansion rate which leads to the  following.

2.  Our fan belts are not merely made of polymer.   They are composites
made of polymers combined with fibers that are intended to  keep the belts from
stretching under either tension or thermal expansion.   The relative rates
of thermal expansion are 0.000017 for a fiber reinforced  polymer vs the
previously stated .0000123 of aluminum in inches per Inch per  degree F rise in
temperature.  This calculates to approximately 38% more  expansion for the
belt as compared to aluminum for the same temperature  rise.  38% is a far
far cry from the 1000% claimed.  Even this 38%  differential is moot due to
the following.

3.  The crankcase of our engines reach a significantly  high temperature
when driven.  Anyone who has accidentally touched a hot  engine can testify to
this.  Of course, being air cooled, our Corvair  engines get hotter than
water pumpers.  While the engine is running, the  belts we use have a very
benign temperature rise because the only way they  can absorb heat is from very
short duration contact with the crankshaft  pulley.  The flexing and
friction also causes temperature rise.   Counteracting this heat gain,
the belt is
flapping through fairly cool air in  the chamber above the engine.  As you
know, this air is constantly pulled  into the upper chamber by the engine's
fan and has no time to heat up before  being drawn into the engine by the
fan.  It is very close to the ambient  temperature you and I enjoy outside the
car.  In addition, a moving section  of the belt is being significantly
cooled due to the air stream which is pulled  into the fan at the mouth of the
"Turkey Roaster."  This is what is called  forced convection cooling and it
is significant.  If the fan belt were to  reach actual engine temperature on
a regular basis, yes, it would stretch but we  would be replacing them
every few hundred miles or sooner.  So, while the  belt has an approximate 38%
greater thermal coefficient of expansion  compared to the aluminum crankcase,
the belt's temperature will only rise a few  degrees while the engine can
rise hundreds of degrees.  Remember, the  coefficient of thermal expansions
is defined with "per degree rise in  temperature."  In the actual  operating
environment, the engine expands much more than the fan belt in  our Corvairs.

4.  As stated above, polymers and rubber expand  at 0.000041 Inches per
Inch per degree F rise.  The fact that the  included fibers prevents the belt
from growing significantly along its length  does not negate the laws of
Physics.  The polymer must expand.  If it  cannot grow in length due to the
fibers, the expansion must relieve itself  somehow.  It does this by "plumping
up."  In effect, the belt grows  both in depth and width when it heats up.
The net result is that the belt  will get tighter on the pulleys despite its
greater coefficient of  expansion.  You might call this a "reverse" thermal
coefficient and it is  likely that Engineers take this into account when
designing belts far  application in hot environments.  Of course, this growth
in cross section  will be minimal because, as stated above, the temperature
rise of the belt will  be minimal.

For all the above reasons, I think we can accept my contention  that the
Corvair engine grows more than the belt in real world use.

Next, the belts on water pumpers stay on and last longer  because they are
in-line unlike the odd configuration of our Corvairs.   They do not twist as
much as 90 degrees before rushing on to the next pulley as  they do on our
cars.  This is one reason they can be adjusted  tighter.  This was hinted at
by another.

Next, on water pumper fans, the clutch decouples the greatest  rotating
inertia in the cooling system; that being the fan blade  assembly.  To verify
this, go out to any water pumper with a fan clutch and  turn the fan with
your finger.  It turns extremely easily.  Because of  this, the effect it has
on a fan belt when changing engine speeds is nearly non  existent.

Lastly, on water pumpers, if there are multiple driven  components like
A/C, power steering, etc. they usually have multiple belts  so that each belt
is not subjected to too much slippage when RPMs change  quickly.  The
rotating inertia is spread between belts during acceleration  and
deceleration.  Of
course, this isn't the only reason to use multiple  belts.  Serpentine
belts usually work alone but they have the advantage of  "dynamic"
tightening to
allow slippage as necessary without excessive  wear.  Again, these are
in-line (on a two dimensional plane) so there is  little danger of popping a
belt off.  Our Corvairs' belts drive only the  fan and the alt/gen.  If there
is an A/C compressor, it has its own belt  and it is in-line.

On a final note, VV has many contributors who are real  authorities on
technical topics as well as historical information as regards our  Corvairs and
autos in general.  Many are very knowledgeable in off-topic  subjects as
well.  I think we are all thankful for their  contributions.  I know I am.
Unfortunately, there are a few  individuals who seem to feel that stating
invalid information in an  authoritative manner makes them appear to be true
authorities on a given  topic.  This is a sad reality in personal, business and
political arenas as  well as here on VV.  Of course, they are entitled to
their opinions as are  we all.  However, it is to our benefit to recognize
these individuals as  being less than the experts they try to portray
themselves as.  Once  identified, we can take their statements with a
grain of salt.
It  would be unfortunate if someone were to take misinformation as fact,
apply it to  something important and live to regret it.

Not to sound arrogant or self absorbed but you might say that  once you
have read this clarification, "all will become clear."

I would be happy to forward a link or links to sites which  show the
numbers I have claimed above.  Just ask.

Doc

1960 Corvette, 1961 Rampside, 1962 Rampside, 1964  Spyder coupe, 1965
Greenbrier, 1966 Canadian Corsa turbo coupe, 1967 Nova SS,  1968 Camaro ragtop
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

In a message dated 4/11/2012 4:09:22 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
virtualvairs-request at corvair.org writes:

Message:  8
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 17:33:23 -0400 (EDT)
From:  RoboMan91324 at aol.com
Subject: <VV> Fan belt tension
To:  virtualvairs at corvair.org, cmckinley313 at verizon.net
Message-ID:  <7f08.772da2f5.3cb752a3 at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="US-ASCII"

Hi Chuck,

I don't recall seeing anyone  suggest a "very tight" tension on  a Corvair
fan belt but I must  admit I skip some of the postings.  Always  tighten
the
belt so  you are just able to turn the alternator or generator fan  with
one
or two fingers.  You said, "just turn the fan" and I assume you  do  not
mean
the engine's cooling fan.  The engine fan has a  much larger  diameter and
is
much easier to turn even when the belt  is too  tight.

If you over tighten the belt, you can shorten the  life of the  fan bearing
(as you said) as well as the alt/gen  bearing, fan belt, etc.   However,
there are other reasons to  avoid over tightening the belt as  follows....

1.  The  engine's cooling fan is a fairly large rotating  mass.  This means

that it takes energy to spin it up to speed and once it  is at speed,  it
is
storing that energy.  In effect, it is a flywheel.    When you accelerate
in
first gear, you bring the fan up to speed.   When you  shift to second
gear,
the engine slows quickly (sometimes  very quickly) and the  fan tries to do
the same but can only slow to  a limited degree.  Because  the fan wants to
keep spinning while  the damper/crankshaft pulley has already  slowed,
something must  slip, break or pop off.  Slipping is preferable to  the
other two  and
this is how the system was designed to operate.  It is   during the
upshifts
and to a certain degree, the downshifts that your belt  will  be more
likely
to pop off if it is too tight.  This is  especially the case  if you are an
aggressive driver.  I believe  there is somewhat less risk of  this being a
problem if you have an  automatic trannie.

2.  Pretty much everything expands as it  gets  hotter.  However, aluminum
expands more per degree of  temperature rise than  many substances
including
steel.  As you  know, the Corvair crankcase and  other components are
aluminum.   If your belt is a little tight when it is  cold, it will become
too tight
once the engine gets up to operating temperature  when the engine  expands
and your belt could become far too tight if the engine   overheats for any
reason.  You can see this if you check the  tightness of  the belt when
cold and
again immediately after you have  taken a drive.   (Don't burn your
fingers.
The alt/gen pulley  can also get quite  hot.)

As a cautionary note, if you get general  service for your  Corvair at your
local mechanic, check your belt  tightness when you get it  back.  Some
mechanics are  conscientious and might check and tighten your  belt to what
they
think it should be.  Along this line of reasoning, you  should  also verify
your tire pressure.  As you may know, our cars need   higher pressure in
the
rear compared to the front which is the opposite of  most  other cars.  The
mechanic may think he is being thorough  raising the  pressure in the front
but
is actually creating a  dangerous situation in his or  her ignorance.  By
all
means tell  him but don't assume that just telling  the mechanic not to
play
with  the belt tightness or tire pressure is  sufficient.  The guy who
"writes you up" may not be the guy who works on  your car or  FC.  I have
also
heard horror stories where the garage "helper"   tops off the Corvair's
"radiator" with water.  You do not want to  drive the  car with a crankcase
full of
oil/water  mixture.

Lastly, always carry a spare belt because you will be going  nowhere fast
if
you lose your belt.  It is cheap   insurance.  The belt is often torn up or
permanently bent up when it  pops  off at speed.  You should also carry the
proper tools to  replace the belt  but at least generic tools can be
borrowed
in a  pinch.  The proper size  belt may not be available where you break
down
on a holiday weekend up in the  mountains or in the desert  ........
Murphy's Law.

Doc

1960 Corvette, 1961 Rampside,  1962 Rampside, 1964 Spyder  coupe, 1965
Greenbrier, 1966 Canadian  Corsa turbo coupe, 1967 Nova SS, 1968  Camaro
ragtop

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