<VV> How On Earth Do You Remove A 64 Spyder Generator?

[Frank DuVal]

Ah, the joys of the big fan 64's.

The generator output is larger on the 64's, so they gave it a bigger fan.

Take out the oil pressure switch first, it helps. An opportunity to buy 
new tools!

The nut is 15/16". I do not recall an allen hex in a generator armature, 
alternators have them.  Take an old belt, wrap around the pulley groove, 
and lock with visegrips. Do not use visegrips on the steel pulley. Do 
not try to hold the pulley by prying with a screwdriver on the fan 
blades. They snap off very quickly! Or, use impact gun like Shaun says. 
They do work the best, but it is hard to use them on a 64, since there 
is no clear straight shot....

The stock Corvair armatures have left hand threads, so turn the nut CW 
to loosen, backwards of normal. Unless someone changed the armature in 
the past and used a normal GM armature. Yes they fit fine, just have 
right hand threads. Look at the threads visible on yours, and see if you 
can see which way they lie. /////// is left handed, \\\\\\\\ is right 
handed.

Yes, brushes are typically the electrical failure. Bearings and bushings 
are the  typical mechanical failure.

How could you test the voltage regulator without a working generator?

Easy generator test. Start engine. Attach voltmeter positive lead to A 
(armature) terminal of generator, negative lead to ground. Note voltage. 
If 14 or so, everything is OK. If 12.6 or less, attach a wire from 
ground to the F (field) terminal of the generator. If voltage stays the 
same, generator is bad. If voltage goes up to 14 or more, generator is 
good, voltage regulator or something else is bad. Remove wire as soon as 
you get the voltmeter reading. You are full fielding the generator and 
it will overheat after some time. Note, run engine above idle (1500 rpm 
or so) when reading voltmeter, as generator output at idle can be zero, 
thus 12.6 Volts or so could be normal at idle.

Frank DuVal







On 3/24/2012 7:47 PM, S M wrote:
> The best way to remove that nut is with an impact gun. You don't need to hold it then. It is left handed, I think (it's been so long...), should be able to tell by looking at the threads sticking out.
> The shaft has an internal hex for an allen key to hold it, but it's very hard to remove that way.
> It shouldn't be too hard to wiggle the pulley off after the nut's gone.
> yea, Vairily ... Shaun
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ken Maxwell<kobramax at insightbb.com>
> Date: Saturday, March 24, 2012 5:15 pm
> Subject:<VV>  How On Earth Do You Remove A 64 Spyder Generator?
> To: Virtual Vairs<virtualvairs at corvair.org>
>
>> Hi Guys,
>>   
>> First of all, I want to thank everyone who responded with helpful
>> suggestions on my generator light problems on my 64 Spyder last
>> week. I now
>> have installed 4 original T-3 headlights to replace the halogens
>> and a new
>> dimmer switch has been installed. The regulator checks out but
>> the generator
>> reads zero in all tests.
>>   
>> No problem, I thought. I have a guy who can rebuild it but then
>> I tried to
>> take it off and ran into a brick wall. What was Chevy thinking?
>> The fan on
>> the generator prevents me from removing the rear bolt and I
>> can't even get a
>> wrench on the front one! I assume I have to somehow remove the
>> fan from the
>> generator first, but how do I do that? Are the threads on the
>> big nut
>> holding it on regular or reverse? How to I hold the generator to
>> keep it
>> from spinning when I try to loosen the nut? Is the fan pressed
>> on when I get
>> the nut off? Will I have to remove the oil pressure switch? What
>> a mess! It
>> really makes me appreciate the relative ease of removing a late model
>> alternator! Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
>>   
>> Ken Maxwell
>> Louisville, KY
>> 64 Spyder Coupe
>> 69 Monza Convertible