<VV> Funny EM Photo VirtualVairs Digest, Vol 107, Issue 6

Urs Tanner utgrenchen at bluewin.ch
Thu Dec 5 08:00:34 EST 2013


Hi
The photo dates from the national expo in Lausanne Switzerland  in 1964.
As a kid of 8 years I visited the exposition with my family.
About 40 pedal Corvair cars were sponsored by Nestlé.
It was a education park to learn the kids  traffic rules.
Therfore the uniformed policemens (not soldiers).
The last time I drove such a Corvair pedal car was 1995 (a clubmember has
restored one).  

Urs Tanner
Former president of the Swiss Corvair Club
63 Monza Convertible
62 Monza Coupé

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Gesendet: Donnerstag, 5. Dezember 2013 04:50
An: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Betreff: VirtualVairs Digest, Vol 107, Issue 6

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Funny EM Photo from eBay (Bryan Blackwell)
   2. Re: COMMENT: motor R&R shortcuts (N2VZD at aol.com)
   3. Started listing early Convertible parts on Ebay (Mike Moyer)
   4. Re: Funny EM Photo from eBay (BobHelt at aol.com)
   5. Re: Engine Install (Bil & Chris Strickland)
   6. Re: [fastvair] Re:  Engine Install (SKIP FROST)
   7. Re: COMMENT: motor R&R shortcuts (Michael McCrae)
   8. Re: Engine Install hints (Frank DuVal)
   9. Re: LM  Engine  ONLY  Removal /  Install hints (Matt Nall)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 17:39:10 -0500
From: Bryan Blackwell <bryan at skiblack.com>
Subject: Re: <VV> Funny EM Photo from eBay
To: "Steven J. Serenska" <corvair at serenska.com>
Cc: virtualvairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Message-ID: <932427E4-513D-4081-B0AF-98452317098E at skiblack.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

They're pedal cars in Switzerland.  Kent Sullivan did an article that
includes more details on them, a couple still exist.

--Bryan

On Dec 4, 2013, at 4:57 PM, Steven J. Serenska wrote:

> Does anyone know anything about these?
> 
>  http://www.autolit.net/Graphics/1113/c9213.jpg
> 
> Dig them crazy hats...



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 18:58:59 -0500 (EST)
From: N2VZD at aol.com
Subject: Re: <VV> COMMENT: motor R&R shortcuts
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <35164.71f30859.3fd11bc2 at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

I am now installing the second throwout nose this year on units that people
tried doing motor R&R without removing the WHOLE wad.
 
Regards, happy holidays , Tim Colson
 

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 16:47:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Mike Moyer <vairvert67 at yahoo.com>
Subject: <VV> Started listing early Convertible parts on Ebay
To: virtual vairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Message-ID:
	<1386204424.72919.YahooMailNeo at web121103.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

If anyone is interested I started listing Early Convertible parts on Ebay
Trying to clear out the garage before I return to Afghanistan Should be
listing more parts in next few days

Seller:?? vairpartsnrepairs

?
Mike Moyer
Navarre, FL
1945 Cushman Road King
1965 Monza Convertible 140 hp 4spd 3:55 Posi AM/FM
1965 Greenbrier 110 hp Powerglide
1982 Corvette Crossfire Automatic
1984 Corvette Z51 Crossfire Automatic

------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 20:49:47 -0500 (EST)
From: BobHelt at aol.com
Subject: Re: <VV> Funny EM Photo from eBay
To: thesuperscribe at yahoo.com, corvair at serenska.com,
	virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <9aec6.77a49539.3fd135bb at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

As I remember, this photo was on the cover of a 1960's issue  of chevrolet's
FRIENDS monthly magazine. A copy of the mag will identify the  photo, I'm
sure.
Regards,
Bob Helt
 
 
In a message dated 12/4/2013 3:14:21 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
thesuperscribe at yahoo.com writes:

Well,  the little cars are knock-offs of '61 Earlies. Look at the conical 
hats and  the odd uniforms on the soldiers in the background. I'll bet this 
is a c. 1961  punishment camp in North Korea! 

--Tom in Ohio



On  Wednesday, December 4, 2013 4:58 PM, Steven J. Serenska  
<corvair at serenska.com> wrote:

Does anyone know anything  about these?

http://www.autolit.net/Graphics/1113/c9213.jpg

Dig them crazy  hats...

Steven "oh, and LM hats are better" Serenska
Bristol,  RI



------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2013 17:51:04 -0800
From: Bil & Chris Strickland <lechevrier at q.com>
Subject: Re: <VV> Engine Install
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <529FDC08.8060509 at q.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed


Yes, Mark, I too like to do the entire drive train all bolted up on 
earlies, but on lates, it is a bit more of a crap shoot -- NOTICE: Frank 
said put the bottle jack on "top" of the diffy, jacking the transaxle 
down, away from the body -- I've never tied it this way, but I do see 
how that could work on a late (I have owned a couple Corsas over the 
years ... )

Bill Strickland


------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 16:35:30 -0500
From: SKIP FROST <frostvair at aol.com>
Subject: Re: <VV> [fastvair] Re:  Engine Install
To: "fastvair at yahoogroups.com" <fastvair at yahoogroups.com>
Cc: "VirtualVairs at corvair.org" <VirtualVairs at corvair.org>,
	"fastvair at yahoogroups.com" <fastvair at yahoogroups.com>
Message-ID: <C6A3CDD3-2B91-44D0-9A39-78944CEE5086 at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset=utf-8

I thought I would weigh in here being this is the only way I pull engines.
My father and I always lift the car with the center motor mount using a
chain fall. I will break it down step by step. This is what we do and by no
means am I saying this is the end all be all way. 1st disconnect everything
on top. The engine seal, pull the dist. Cap off, pull alt. off, pull fill
tube out, and air cleaner off. Leave carbs on. Next go underneath and pull
the starter, heater hoses and and lower rear grill and motor mount bolt
cover plate. Pull all motor bell housing bolts except bottom two. Now with
this done and a couple obvious things like throttle linkage and wiring
harness's your ready to pull the engine out. Now take a soft strap and loop
it threw the rear motor mount and hook to the hanging chain falls hook. Now
lift car up just enough to slide ATV jack under engine leaving enough room
to be able to pull lower bell housing bolts out. Now bring jack up and pull
rear motor mount nuts
  off. Now raise car up a couple inches and pull front bell housing bolts
out. Now slide engine back 4". Reach between engine and bell housing and
slide drive shaft back into trans. Now raise car a little slide engine back.
Repeat lifting and sliding back till engine is clear and lift the car till
engine can slide right out the back. 
To install follow same procedure in reverse. I have done hundreds of motors
like this and have never broke anything. On an average day I can have a
motor out in 20-30 minutes. I have never used pins to line it up but I do
put a slot on the end of each bolt. Sorry I have no pics showing this but
the next engine we do I'll take some. Any questions please feel free to call
me at my shop. 419-357-5395 Skip Frost

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 4, 2013, at 3:56 PM, sethracer at aol.com wrote:
> 
> That is what I was going to suggest. Leave the lower control rods/struts
connected, the driveshafts in place, just disconnect the shifter, clutch rod
and a few cables and drop the transaxle down enough to gain a straight shot
onto it -using those "popular" guide pins. Tighten it up, install the
starter and lift the assembly back into place. And be careful Brian! We
don't heal as easily as when we were young!  - Seth
>  
> In a message dated 12/4/2013 11:06:37 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
ronh at owt.com writes:
> Drop the remaining transaxle, it won't take long, mate the engine to it
and 
> install it the way you're used to.  It's the safest way to go.
> RonH
> 
> __._,_.___
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------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 18:31:04 -0800
From: Michael McCrae <mmccrae6 at cox.net>
Subject: Re: <VV> COMMENT: motor R&R shortcuts
To: "N2VZD at aol.com" <n2vzd at aol.com>, "virtualvairs at corvair.org"
	<virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Message-ID: <BAY175-W155CDB9C8783C7BAA23429D5D70 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Who is making steel noses now...just Clark's?
 
Mike McCrae
 
> From: N2VZD at aol.com
> Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 18:58:59 -0500
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Subject: Re: <VV> COMMENT: motor R&R shortcuts
> 
> I am now installing the second throwout nose this year on units that
people 
>  tried doing motor R&R without removing the WHOLE wad.
>  
> Regards, happy holidays , Tim Colson
>  
>  _______________________________________________
> This message was sent by the VirtualVairs mailing list, all copyrights are
the property
> of the writer, please attribute properly. For help,
mailto:vv-help at corvair.org
> This list sponsored by the Corvair Society of America,
http://www.corvair.org/
> Post messages to: VirtualVairs at corvair.org
> Change your options:
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>  _______________________________________________
 		 	   		  

------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2013 22:21:51 -0500
From: Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net>
Subject: Re: <VV> Engine Install hints
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <529FF14F.60208 at cox.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

That's right, set the bottle jack on the differential cover and this 
will jack the diff downward to the rear (sometimes a block of wood is 
needed, as only a small jack will fit). If the car is up on jack stands 
so the rear of the car is in the air, this allows the transaxle to be 
more level with the ground, so sliding the engine on a jack on the floor 
(which by definition is parallel to the floor) will engage the 
differential at about the same angle, well at least that is the goal!

This even helps PG cars do engine swaps, engine only.

Yes, earlies are always remove the whole drivetrain. Waaaay easier.

Here in the rusty east there are too many strut rods* that snap off 
while removing them to bother with entire drivetrain removal on lates.

Taking the shift coupler pin out helps, but I usually forget.

Those long bolts with heads removed are very nice.

And for those new to the game, remember to cut slots on the bolt end 
(not the head end) of the bolts holding the differential to the 
belhousing. This alows a slotted screwdriver to spin those bolts home 
instead of turning them 1/6 of a rotation with each wrench motion. This 
applies to the two bolts at 3 and 9 o'clock. You can slot them all if 
you wish, then it doesn't matter which hole they go in. This is for 
manual and PG cars.

Frank DuVal

* This is both the two smaller rods next to the transmission and the 
bolts holding the large rods at the differential., the outer cam 
adjusters always (well better than 50% of the time) break here.

On 12/4/2013 8:51 PM, Bil & Chris Strickland wrote:
> Yes, Mark, I too like to do the entire drive train all bolted up on
> earlies, but on lates, it is a bit more of a crap shoot -- NOTICE: Frank
> said put the bottle jack on "top" of the diffy, jacking the transaxle
> down, away from the body -- I've never tied it this way, but I do see
> how that could work on a late (I have owned a couple Corsas over the
> years ... )
>
> Bill Strickland



------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 22:49:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Matt Nall <patiomatt at aol.com>
Subject: Re: <VV> LM  Engine  ONLY  Removal /  Install hints
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <8D0BF8429B9281D-B74-BC99 at webmail-d299.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"







see attached pics


Matt Nall
Charleston, Oregon
http://tinyurl.com/The-Corvair-Patio

http://tinyurl.com/Matts-Tech-Pages










 


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